The Season of School Birthdays

Bird on a wire, fishing village outside Fulong

Last month all the schools around Yilan celebrated their founding year with a Saturday activity. The following Monday was off to preserve the 2 day weekend. The different schools did it on different days so that for my neighbors it a hodgepodge of comings and goings. The oldest elementary school in Yilan is Zhongshan, which was founded in 1896.

My daughter's school celebrated their 38th year mid May with many speeches, a performance by each grade that ended with a massive pot-luck feast. The early morning race around the lake was canceled because of the rain. One of the mothers was Vietnamese so I made sure to sample her spring rolls and fish sauce. A Canadian father baked three different scones, I had brought bland potato salad (that Z and I made together) but the kids were happy gorging themselves on pizza and ice-cream.

I parked near the house of my child's classmates home, and her gran gave us several of these veggies.

The most notable performance was from my daughter's class (of course) playing a traditional Chinese clay "flute" (aerophone) called a Xun (塤) that dates back over 7000 years from the Stone Age. Its associated with loneliness, respectable hermits, ladies in sorrow and was played in palaces. She played the tambourine as well. I adored the "Chinese Yo-Yo" (扯鈴) class performance and solo. I wish I had the time to learn this myself.

My school had their big bash the end of May. The students had been rehearsing their class dances the past few weeks. It was a terribly hot and humid day. We escaped to our office AC several times when it was unbearable. It was set up like a night market with each class selling different snacks. 




The Environmental Science table was my favorite; they demonstrated how to collect and filter rain water, gave me a free succulent and sold edible cacti drizzled with raw honey. I ended up buying more little succulents for my balcony. 

With my following Monday off, I wanted to do something that I couldn't do on the weekends because of the crowds. So I pulled my kid out of school and we took the train to Fulong and biked 27 km around the Sandiao Cape. We rented bikes for the day (100 NT)  and started at the Old Caoling Tunnel, looping around the Lighthouse, returning near the free beach. Despite having hats and sunblock we still managed to get patches burnt- human candy canes. My daughter had a bit of an accident near the end and is recovering from a nasty cut that became partially infected fairly quickly after washing it (hard to dry out in this climate.) We want to try to bike the loop again in the Fall from the other direction.

Yilan Coast from New Taipei City, biking the Fulong Loop Bike Trail 

We were so hot and sweaty, shaved ice (bing) was in order as soon as we returned the bikes. Z was extremely exhausted from the bike ride that she didn't even want to cool off with a swim!  This worked out, as the sky started pouring as soon as we took the train back to Yilan. She slept in my arms the whole time. This was the highlight of my Fulong venture.

Reverence and Rituals Incarnate: Christmas and New Year

It was that time of year again. If I didn't live with a little spirited elf myself,  I can't imagine Christmas being as jolly or meaningful while experiencing it in Taiwan. You certainly have to cultivate the season of holiness. Its all "Jingle Bells" and "We Wish You" and not enough "Angels We Have Heard on High".

The Yilan weather is more conducive to reflection; with it's somber, sunless skies, the nebulous storm clouds obscure the life source. One light piercing the gloom, a solitary candle in a bitter twilight rain. This is the spirit of Christmas, minus the snow and family. (I couldn't imagine Christmas south of the equator, more like a summer BBQ, but I certainly would give it a try.)

Winter in Taiwan starts with the winter solstice and everyone having to eat the traditional sweet date soup with sticky rice balls (tang yuan). Every school I worked for has served it with lunch. It supposed to mean a year of good luck. I took my 7th grade class caroling to the nearest elderly retirement home, which was a tender experience of connecting with the community for everyone. (Read about it here.)

My arms are too short for selfies!

Christmas Day was austere and subdued. My friend from Tainan made the trip north so it was more festive sharing the seasonal traditions, opening presents by the tree, meditate the blue twinkling lights at night and catch up on midnight merrymaking, Christmas ale toasts and a cornucopia of conversation.

We had a fabulous Boxing Day hike in the Yilan wonderland. The Caoling  Historic Trail (草嶺古道) has been on my list of DO's since moving here. We took the train to Gongliao, rented bikes and biked to the trail head. My kid uphill on a bike was slow going, but she was a real trooper and didn't give up.

We biked along this river for a bit

Then we hiked to Dali.  There were a few interesting rockbound places to rest.

We saw wild grouse, macaques and load of birds  I must learn their names.

A troupe of macaques live in the trees where the silver grass covers the hills

It wasn't blue skies, but it didn't rain, so it was cold enough to dry our sweat at the top and clear enough to see the ocean. Perfect hiking weather.

Views from the top, looking down onto Dali

Best of all we had the whole trail to ourselves, which was surprising considering its such a famous trail and not that far from Taipei.

The next day we decided to soak our weary bones in the hot springs of nearby Jiaoxi.  We lunched at the Slow Train Cafe . There's a reason its called slow, but the coffee was amazing. The ingredients are fresh and we ordered paninis, but it was pretty spare on the fillings- too much bread.

A Grateful Dead dinner at Slobber's

We took  a ten minute train ride and walked to one of our favorite spa hotels but they moved shop. It wasn't a far walk to their new abode but along the way we passed The Art Spa Hotel that Z and I always wanted to check out (because of their massive 4 story winding water slide) so we just decided to give this place a try.  It was mad fun. Z played with the kids in the children's area which was basically a playground submerged in a kiddie pool, while us adults  rotated to different spa treatments, pools and saunas. I got one try down the slide and my kid had 2 (it was a massive line). Living so close we we vowed to return.

The New Years Weekend was entirely a relaxing, sybaritic 3 day weekend. We couldn't rouse the energy to visit Tainan, even with the promise of catching up with old friends, better restaurant options and the Chi Mei museum. Being stuck in traffic in the tunnels on the way to Taipei and circumstancing the zoo of Taipei Main station, the jacked ticket prices for high-speed train south- nah.

New Years Eve dinner was Italian at the Caffe Grazzie in Luna Plaza. Its the only place we can get arugula and we are nuts for it.

New Years Eve dinner, Cafe Grazie. The past has gone,welcome the better year. May you achieve anything your heart desires this new year!過去已矣，來者可追，願新的一年，大家心想事成!

The first day of the year, the sun surmounted the spell of gloom like a promise. So we went to Yuanshan for a leisurely hike. There are several trails near my kid's school that they often take for an extended PE class, so she was my guide. I had a blast. We bought organic oranges from a school mate whose mom was picking them in their family orchard. We caught up on her favorite TV show "Supergirl" and drank pots of chai.  I thoroughly enjoyed her company and didn't regret spending the holiday weekend solely with her without distraction of work or chores. What an undeniable gift.

Ring in the New Year in Yilan? Possibly Maybe

Still haven't made any plans for our upcoming 4 day weekend? I'm undecided myself. Should I stay or make the journey south to Tainan and see old friends. If you're undecided,  then take a chance on Yilan.


 In case a nightlife is your scene then save your trip to Yilan for another time. There is none of that. But you could catch the first morning light of the new year at Su-ao overlooking the Pacific at 6:37am. There are several coffee shops overlooking the beach.

You will find more accommodation options in Jiaoxi as its tailored to Taipei weekend goers who want some hot spring waters in their bathtubs.  However there are some hotels in Yilan City too.

Across from Yilan Train Station

Getting here:
Driving from Southern Taiwan, there are several options, either way you will come through some of of Taiwan's and Asia's longest tunnels.

From Taipei: The buses (Capitol Star and Kamalan) are faster than the train unless you get on the fastest train that goes to Hualien. Tickets are sold out by now, you can go still, but you'll be standing in the aisles. The bus from Taipei Main Station and City Hall, leave every 15 minutes and is around 120NT and the drive is around 70 minutes. The bus depot in Yilan is behind the train station, you'll need to take a taxi or rent a scooter to your hotel. Even with a valid car driver's license, foreigners can only rent the smallest scooter, you need a scooter license to rent bigger scooters.

Balagov's Ukrainian Cafe

Where to eat:
Of course Yilan City looks like any city in Taiwan, you can find noodles, dumplings, rice boxes anywhere. But if you want a real treat head to Mr. Balagov's Cafe (Guava Dog in Chinese) for homemade healthy Ukrainian food. The space itself is gorgeous with Ukrainian knickknacks, wall stencils, every corner has some folk art that Sergei the owner brought back with him. He is an interesting dude, having lived in Brooklyn for years, his English is excellent and his wife is aboriginal so she of course also speaks Mandarin. She has helped me out when I needed to find something in Yilan.  I go there once a week as a treat and often buy a bottle of Kvass to last me during the week, sometimes I splurge and buy a loaf of rye break or homemade Ukrainian sausage. My favorite meal is the set meal with meatballs and mashed potatoes that includes borscht soup, kvass and apple cake. He also serves Turkish coffee and sheesha, should that tickle your fancy. The homemade  blueberry and mint ice-cream with crepes are also good. Definately wash your meal down with a big bottle of thirst quenching Russian beer. You wont reget coming here. What never fails to astound me are the local tour buses and crowds that head to the mediocre place next door. Taiwanese tourists come to Balagov's to take photos of their gorgeous little garden and cottage and then eat at the bland run of the  mill Taiwanese place, passing over a local treasure. Don't make the same mistake.

If you want to eat Italian,Thai, Sushi Express or go to Tasty's head to Lunar Plaza, the local mall. There is also a Carrefore in the basment and parking, which is a royal pain if you are driving a car.

Beer at Piggy's

Other recommendations are Awesome Burger which is like a mom and pop TGIF set up. They have a peanut butter burger which I havent had the desire to try, tho I love peanut butter. My kid likes the bacon cheese burger and onion rings. I also like Piggy's Bar for their jalapeno poppers and Mexican lasgana. Their beer list is amazing, you can get a variety of Canadian ales, lagers and stouts some of them organic. If you are in Loudong (checking out the nearby waterfalls or Botanic Gardens), you can eat Indian at Spice Land , definitely for Taiwanese palate,so ask for hotter curry. The naan bread is too starchy for me, but the sweet, coconut naan is a great post hike pick me up. I recommend  the chai coffee, and pineapple chutney with scones are amazing. In Loudong you can have an organic brunch at Light Brunch and Cafe (03-954-3397). There is also a dynamic duo who drives around Yilan County and makes custom pizzas out of their truck which has a built in stone oven. Sunday they are in Touchung, Wednesday they're in Nanfang'ao, Thursday in Jiaoxi, Friday in Zuangwei, and Saturday in Su'ao (0963-623210). There is also Tavola's, and Brown Taffy, which I still need to check out.

Biking along Yilan Riverside Park

Where to workout:
Yilan Sports Park has a weight room, track, outdoor rings, parallel bars and huge rollerblading rink. You can also rent a bike hit a trail and bike on a bike path all the way to Loudong Sports Park. There is an indoor pool.. You can hit 3 hiking trails in Jiaoxi near the waterfalls or outside Su'ao. You can also run the stairs and so some yoga at Yilan County Government Building. The green field looks great for a run, but the ground is treacherously uneven under the thick grass. Better to run at the empty track at Yilan sports park or any of the bike trails. You can pick up a detailed map of all the bike trails at the Tourist info center at Yilan Train station.

What to do:
It will probably be cold, so warm up in the hot springs, Jiaoxi, Fanfan or in Taipingshan. If its not raining, bike along the coast or head to any of the lakes and rent bikes. Jiaoxi, Nanao and Loudong have some great waterfalls (see my post "Whats Not There To Do Here").

If its raining, you can still enjoy the hot springs, but there is also a local brewery, honey museum and farms galore.

What Taiwanese tourists do when they arrive at Yilan is take photos of the train station, and across the train station is a hanging train which I suppose is interesting in its own way. What is also standard is hitting the night market in Yilan (Dongmen Night Market) and Loudong. I'm over night markets, they seem to be all the same to me, but there is a guy in Yilan,"The Watermelon Prince" who has a stand near the bridge and he sells the freshest juices. Other than that, its just like any other night market, dumplings, stinky tofu, greasy and fried anything. The morning market in Yilan is far more interesting.

I might of convinced myself to stay here and relax.

Easy Riders

The gorgeous, empty and accessible bike path along Yilan's coast

I was sort of lamenting my kid's lack of biking skills, which is my fault, I mean practice makes perfect. She doesn't have my childhood of free summers cruising on our  bikes, making jumps, going to the library alone, unattended. So it is no surprise she isn't as adequate a biker, with zero street skills, its a completely different life for her.

Our morning commute to school is ideal for a refreshing morning bike ride, and getting some exercise on a non rainy day. I envy all the walkers on the numerous path while I drive to work, as I constantly admire the view of the mountain range which looks different everyday from my car. I want to be out in this notoriously clean Yilan air.

With her insane amount of homework and her massive carry on, luggage like school backpack, I don't know how she could pull it off on a bike.


Still, its a kind of goal, dream of mine that we can bike to school in Zhuanwei from our house in Yilan, when Spring 2015. (Its a ten minute drive, so a 30 min bike ride).

Turtle Island in the distance

 Until then we are biking 5-8 km leisurely along the Yilan coast just for pleasure on the weekend, getting her more comfortable with longer distances. I want to be able to cruise to work without worrying about being late.

 Our go to path is 5 minutes from our school, the Yongzhen Bicycle Path (永鎮海濱遊憩區) apart of the Zhuanwei Coastal Park ( 壯圍海濱公園). From Highway 2 there is a sign next to a massive Taoist temple. (Directions are here at the Yilan Guru).

My friend AJ with my daughter

You can rent bikes cheap, 100NT for 2 hours from a super nice couple who proudly display their daughter's impressive art work.  After a ride we treat ourselves to a Taiwanese ice cream, with shaved peanuts and fresh coriander rolled up in a rice tortilla (Peanut Roll ups 花生 捲).

Going north, the path is short, you have to get on the 2 and find the bike path again. There are several covered picnic areas should the weather change or if you need a rest.

The best thing about this path besides the roar of rolling waves crashing on the empty beach, during your entire ride, is having the path all to yourself.

One Tuesdays my Yogini coworker and I head here for some much needed vinyasa. We ditch school to come here on our lunch break. On warmer days we have brought our daughters here during the school week for a post lunch swim which is like taking a holiday in the middle of the day.

Me in Prasarita Padottanasana

It's unbelievable that no one uses this beach other than the lone fisherman and the stray beach dogs, and of course us.

Biking In Baihe 白河區

Lotus seeds, Baihe 白河區

It was June 22 and I needed as the saying goes, "to get the heck outta Dodge". A day trip was in order.

I told my Chinese teacher that early Saturday morning I was going to hop on one of those free shuttle buses the local Tainan government provide to get people into Tainan county, but the itinerary was going to mango farms and nothing to do but eat mangos. I like mangos but not enough to ride several buses there and back when I get perfectly fine mangos from my local fruit dude.

The Bike Route

My Chinese teacher (and friend) Kevin, advised we take a 45 minute train north to Hou-Bi. So after mid morning yoga class thats exactly what we did.

We hopped on a train to Hou-Bi, and took a 10 minute taxi to BaiHe 白河區. He dropped us off at a bike rental shop in the middle of car-free bike trails and loads of lotus ponds. It was the season of the lotus flowers in bloom, the locals have a Lotus Blossom Festival every year. You'd think taking photos of lotus flowers would get old after so many years, but fortunately it doesn't. 

 

I was rejuvenated just seeing mountains off in the distance, hearing the wind in the tall grass, there were just so many happy birds chirping. 

Me on the path

The only problem was the weather was extremely humid. It could of been worse, the subtropic sun could of been blasting us, but it was overcast. My daughter was in one of her moods and complaining most of the time. It was during her afternoon siesta, so next time I would bike earlier or later. It didn't help her bike chain falling off twice. Still, even her sour mood didn't spoil the day for me and she was all cuddles on the train back to Tainan.

View of where we were when Z's chain fell off and we decided to eat our sandwiches.

Sometimes when I get antsy, a day trip is just the thing to keep me sane. Bai-He is near enough to get out of the city and in nature. I want to go back as we were only 5km away from a reservoir when the girl had about enough of sweating, chains and tiredness. 

The bike rental shop.