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Yilan, Taiwan
I just returned back to the States after 11 years in Taiwan with my daughter. Taiwan is an excellent base for us explore Asia, while living in relative (gun free) safety, while benefiting from a cheap and efficient national health care system. The people are amazing too. I have Taiwanese friendships that are 20 years old and I'm always making new ones! My coworker here in CO is from Taiwan.

Saturday, June 23, 2012

Dragon Boat Festival 端午節



June 23, 2012 Anping
 The Dragon Boat Festival or "Duan Wu" or "Duan Yang" (Duan-Wu meaning Duan means beginning. Wu means Horse month) It can "Upright Sun" or "Double Fifth" in Chinese) is one of the major Chinese festivals officially celebrated in here in Taiwan on the fifth day of the fifth month of the Chinese lunar calendar. There are several poetic and depressing stories about the actual origin of the festival, most involving suicide and drowning. (Try explaining that to a class of 4 year olds; I just tell them Chu Yuan fell into the water and didn't know how to swim--so take some swimming lessons!)


There is the philosopher/poet/statesman Qu Yuan (340 BC-278 BC or 343-290 B.C.), which is the most popular story. He tied a massive rock around is neck and jumped in the river after the king was persuaded by his peers not to take his, Qu Yuan's counsel, the king was killed and the neighboring enemy king took over. The common people were so distraught with is suicide they made glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves and threw them in the water so the fish wouldn't eat Qu Yuan's body or to feed his ghost so as not to torment them. They rowed their dragon boats and threw in their rice dumplings, beating drums to scare away unwanted apparitions, or to scare away the fish from devouring his drowned corpse.

At this time of year it is quite common for the parents of my students to shower me with these green triangular rice dumplings called Zhong-zi 粽子. There are a variety of fillings, of course hard to digest, sticky starchy rice, sometimes egg yolks, peanut, black mushrooms, chestnuts, jujube, pork.... I like them, (Z doesn't), but I couldn't eat them everyday, they stick to the inside of my gut. I put the extra in my freezer for when I don't want to cook too much and just steam it (followed  by a nice soup to wash it down).

There is also the other suicide legend of a young girl Tsaou Er's father who drowned in the river. For 17 days she mourned his death and then on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month she threw herself into the river and also drowned.

One more theory holds that the festival originated from the taboo of evil days and the five poisons. At this time of year, people would fall sick either to poison snake bites, scorpions, centipedes or summer related illnesses. Traditionally, the fifth month of the Chinese lunar calendar is held as an inauspicious one since the forces of "ying" and "yang" is considered to be imbalanced during this period. This is associated with a legend when someone hung the herbs Artemesia (Mugwort) and Acorus (Calamus) on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month,  and the village was spared some epidemic disease. So people starting hanging these plants around their doors to dispel poison insects, pests and contagious diseases. This evolved into putting the powders of these herbs into handmade satchels called Xiang Bao (香包) to be worn around the neck.


Xiang bao nowadays, Sponge Bob and Angry Bird among the zodiac animals

Some mothers will put a smudge of this yellow medicinal powder on their child's forehead or nose to dispel disease (hand foot mouth?) and probably mosquito's. A mother of one of my students did this to her daughter. In Europe during the Middle Ages Mugwort was also used as a magical plant and herb against insects and disease. It is still used in traditional Chinese medicine in moxibustion, which is when the herb is lit, the heat releasing its medicinal properties at specific locations of the body (which for my constitution have never needed, unlike cupping, blood lettings and acupuncture). When I lived in Seoul, the neighborhood bathhouse I regularly went to had several pools infused with Mugwort.It kind of smells like marijuana when its lit and can be smoked. In Ayurvedic medicine it is used for anxiety or dis-ease. (I can ramble forever about plants so better stop myself here.)

Most likely, like all ancient civilizations, this festival had long existed in many other parts of China as marking the first harvest along with Sun  and Snake worship.  Dragons were venerated and worshipped by farmers as controlling the rains, so giving offering of rice dumplings would hopefully endear the dragons to rain on their crops. With increased interaction between people of different regions these festivals eventually got merged and became an independent celebration. Both the Sun and Dragons are associated with masculine energy, the yang aspect. Dragons have traditionally been associated with the Imperial family and specifically the Emperor called “Real Dragon and Son of Heaven.” The five claw-dragon was a symbol of the imperial court. Emperors placed dragon symbols on robes to thrones to flags and everything in between. (Perry, 1966, Lord of the Four Quarters; Myths of the Royal Father, Chapter 5).

The day of the Dragon Boat Festival, traditionalists will fill a glass pitcher of water and let it bask in the sunlit window all morning. Then at 12 noon proceed to wash the body with this super charged yang water. The belief is that this sun water will infuse the body with radiant health for the next year. Also at noon, the sun's energy is so strong that it is said an egg can balance on its head. So today Z and I did a little science experiment and we tried it. I was skyping my folks and wasn't paying attention to the time so I was five minutes past. At 12:05 the egg did not balance. Later at the tea shop their TV was showing the news where hundreds of people successfully were balancing eggs. I was surprised (and just a little jealous). The news then cut to a scene of huge plastic water containers basking in the sun being delivered by truck to customers.

The number 5 has a special significance in Chinese cosmology (Perry 1966) and Traditional Chinese Medicine (read any Mantak Chia books for detailed information). There are 5 elements,  that correspond to 5 directions/ 5 organs (yin and yang), 5 emotions, 5 seasons and 5 flavors:

Organ/Element/ number/polarity /Colour /Season /Consciousness /Emotion/Flavor

Spleen /Earth /5/10 /Tao yellow late summer/ I / intelligence /worry/sweet

Lungs/Metal 4/9 /senior yang/white/autumn Po /corporeal soul /sadness/spicey

Liver/Wood 3/8- junior yin/green or blue /spring /Hun - spiritual soul /anger/sour

Heart/Fire 2/7 / junior yang /red /summer/ Shen - Spirit /joy/bitter

Kidneys/Water/ 1/6 senior yin/ black/ winter/ Zhi - will/fear/salty




Dragons themselves are deeply rooted in Chinese legend. The Chinese creation myth centers around a half snake half human brother and sister who survived a global flood. To regenerate the human race they became  husband and wife. The mythical god/hero  Fu Xi  (伏羲) and his goddess/sister Nu Wa  (女媧 ) themselves are the descendants of  semi-human creatures with snake bodies. She is the goddess who created men, animals and repaired a rupture in the wall of heaven. He is said to be the inventor of writing, the I-Ching and the Bagua.  Over time they evolved  into bodies with animal legs, a horse mane, a rat tail, deer hooves, dog claws and fish scales and  thus became dragons (Perry 1966). Perhaps their story evolved from the worship of snakes often represented as Naga, half human half cobra found in Tibet and SE Asia. (I have some Naga photos from my Cambodia trip here.)

As for our experience of the Dragon Boat races, we arrived in Tainan in July 2008 so we missed that year's Dragon Boat festival. The 2009 Dragon Boat weekend we checked out the boats in the Anping canal and then made our way to Nantou. Last Dragon Boat Festival we went to Green Island (photo here). This year we parked by the aboriginal cultural center and walked a few paces to the canal. Z bought a black Angry Bird Xiang Bao and we got a pretty decent spot  by the water to catch a few races. We didn't stay long, its like a big, crowded night market, but Z enjoyed the races. We caught a few aboriginal dances before the sky poured on us and left home early.


2009 Dragon Boat Festival

2012


Sources:
Mantak Chia (on Taoism and Tai Chi)
(Perry, 1966, Lord of the Four Quarters; Myths of the Royal Father, Chapter 5).











Tuesday, June 12, 2012

The Merry Month of May

My May really kicked into summer that first weekend with local music festival May Jam. The first night, I went with my good friend Grace and our kids. I was a little stunned that her husband decided to join us, he usually opts out when we hang out, but I'm glad he did. Those two acted like Uni students and it was good to see him relaxed and dancing, getting into the music.

Our kids were certainly in awe of the fire jugglers. We left before we could see fellow beachcombers  Dog Eat Dog rock the venue. The kids were getting tired and my ride was leaving.

Day 2


Here is Grace and I below and our kids (Day 1).
Imma's Bakery  and Tin Pan provided some yummy bites and beer. And it was good time to be had by all. The mosquitoes certainly were out for a good time. I saw some old friends I hadn't seen in a while.




The following weekend my former housemate Eric was in Taiwan and came down to Tainan for a visit. I hadn't seen him in maybe 2 years when he brought his wife and daughter. He and I go way back, we once squatted in a condemned building in Chu Wei, Tamsui around 2001. He is the illustrious founder of Happy Cow website an international guide to vegetarian and vegan eateries and lifestyle.

He  first came to Tainan many years ago before moving on and it was great to hear his stories of local mobsters. His first day in Tainan he found a job and an apartment in like 20 minutes. When he came back to Tainan this most recent time, I picked him up in Anping near the Tree House, and by then he had already made some beautiful female friends and other friendly locals were swarming him ready to take him home for dinner. He was grinning ear to ear and remarking on the hospitality of Tainan (its true.)



Eric, me and Z went to the beach before dinner and he said to me, "uh the water looks green , is it radioactive?" On closer inspection the beach was covered with a slimy, thick layer of seaweed. In four years I have never seen it like that. It did look like the water was green, breaking lime green on the shore. It was so nice to have him around, he is so "present" and he made space and time even in his short visit to really BE with me and Z, very enjoyable.


May was also Mother's Day, had a lovely morning w/my daughter followed by lunch and dinner with her best friend's family. Her mom cooked for us and we watched the kids catch fish in the pond. I was exhausted and then I found myself in an indoor playground (with AC) in some place in the Tainan City Council building affiliated with the YMCA. 



The girls were hungry and on our quest we accidentally came across a young calf to bless the opening of a tea shop (also had never seen that before). We had dinner at a local pasta joint.

 

The calf thing was surreal. Just before I had this insane dream about a bull that would jump out of the TV in intervals, each time getting closer and closer until this massive, powerful beast was literally sitting on me, breathing heavy in my face, eye ball to eye ball until we sorta merged (maybe the bull was part of me?) It was scary and exhilarating and one of those dreams that were meaningful in an unexplainable way. So it being Mother's Day I felt like I wanted to free this poor baby calf and feed it and bring it to some green pasture.

May ended with more festivities. That last Friday, Z's kindy class had a camp out at school, so Mommy could have a very late night. My friend Gregorio took me out to the new and improved Olga's Russian BBQ, near my house, followed by some salsa dancing.

Now June is almost halfway over, I'm trying to enjoy summer before it passes away like an easy breeze while also counting down until our July holiday.

Monday, June 11, 2012

The Adult Fascination w/Fairy Tales

I'm a big fan of fairy tales, myths and legends. I was into Greek and Roman mythology as a kid, read Jung and Joseph Campbell, so I understand the deep need we have to tell stories, make sense of the senseless, the individuation progress. I get how stories, modern ones, especially in film are the same hero myth retold for the times (Star Wars) was Campbell's big example. So Hollywood doing fairy tales is nothing new.

Yet, there seems to be a theme lately, heroes, which isn't anything new, I mean I watched the old black and white Robin Hood with Richard Greene and the 80s BBC Robin Hood the Hooded Man, grew up on Indiana Jones, Superman, the A-team... We all did.  Then the whole X-Men, Heroes TV series, Bat Man, Marvel Comics characters, Spiderman.Obviously there is this collective need for a hero, for us to be a hero.

Recently however, American mass media is literally returning back to the fairy tales of our childhood, not necessarily the bubble gum Disney version. Two years ago was the amazing Black Swan,  a text book Jungian Shadow Complex + the universal Mother-Daughter (Demeter/Persephone) story in the background.


There was last year's Red Riding Hood, this year's Volvo's S60 TV ad with a Dad and his daughter as red riding hood. What is the wolf motif anyway? An animal of Artemis/Diana, of the moon, the subconscious, considered devious, like a trickster (think of the Native American Coyote stories, or the Fox character. ("Behold, I send you out as sheep in the midst of wolves; so be shrewd as serpents and innocent as doves"--Gospel of St. Matthew). Yet the wolf is much more sinister than a fox or coyote, and yet an animal helper, intuition as teacher. For Native Americans the wolf is the pathfinder, so perhaps this fascination with wolves is American/Westerner's need for a collective path out of this mess we made.
 


Just the other week, I read a Red Riding book to my preschool class and the ending was totally watered down, cleaned up and thus not the real story. In this version the wolf didn't swallow the grandmother whole, so the hunter didn't need to chop him open to get her out. No, in this modern version, the grandmother was hiding in a cupboard, while the wolf put on her clothes and waited in her bed to receive Red Riding Hood with the familiar words we all know so well. I had to tell the kids as I often do the real ending or I usually tell them alternative stories that I've read (the original ones.)  Kids are smart, there is a reason that fairy tales are often gruesome, scary, they teach something life preserving. I am not for the watered down version. The Little Mermaid dies in the end, she and the prince don't marry and have a girl child, he married the other girl, a noblewoman who found him on the beach, not his real savior. I don't think kids should watch Freddy  Kruger or Halloween, but there is a place for Bluebeard.

There were two, count 'em TWO movies released seemingly back to back retelling the Snow White story. So why Snow White, why now? Mirror Mirror w/ Julia Roberts was a fun, family friendly version.  Snow  White and the Huntsman was a dark, gothic version. They both deal with a broken Mother-Daughter relationship, always a current theme, and also with the theme of female beauty and youth. Mirror Mirror "takes the piss" of the lengths modern woman will go to through to stay young. Check out this clip:


And of course Julia Robert's character is a total Cougar, going after the younger prince. (The whole recent mass media fascination w/Cougar women is another topic and yes I totally support Cougar Women--to a point.).

In the other Kristin Stewart, goth version (love Theron's costumes and crowns), there is this underlying message that our collective problems are due to weak male leadership and this vacuum of the feminine counterpart that allowed a powerful, more demonic feminine power obsessed with not just youth and beauty, but immortality to take possession. The solution becomes following the leadership of the rejected, underdeveloped, feminine, who after coming of age (meeting the Huntsman, a wounded animus and yet he is her counterpart, positive male energy + meeting the dwarfs symbolic of  subconscious helpers and the stag a pagan Celtic motif of Herne, the Green Man, god of the forest ) she individualizes and proves to be more heroic. Like Lazarus or Jesus, she dies and love calls her back from the Otherside. That version is all about the blood of the fairest, the whole topic of blood, another universal, collective theme.

All the dudes identify with the Huntsman (played by the very hot, Thor, Hemsworth), who wounded from a past relationship, drinks too much, made some bad decisions and redeems himself by preserving the young Snow White and training her in combat (helping her development) to fight the Step Mother. The ending is ambiguous but hinting (especially with the kiss) of the huntsman, (the Real Man) rather than the Duke's son (the good catch, still a good guy) of being her real love. So I guess this version would mean that our younger generation have to reject the poor male leadership of their fathers,the demonic, alien feminine energy of their mothers and heal themselves by uniting the wounded masculine and rejected feminine.

I wonder whats next on the collective horizon, certainly more rehashing of old familiar stories. What is fascinating is how its retold and when.

Friday, June 1, 2012

Return to Hsinchu





I think it was the last weekend in April I went back to the Hsinchu area to check out a fantastic job opportunity and reconnect with old friends. The job was in Zhongli and situated at the base of a small foothill with hiking trails. The kind owner of the school (20 + years established school) treated my friend and his wife, Z and my other friend to lunch at the Kung Sheng Ting Cafeteria (next to the 7th day adventist church.). It was an all you can eat buffet. I had several servings of these amazing mushroom dishes.


Lucky for us it was the time of year when the camellia flowers (茶花) were in bloom. They sell the oil here for cooking oil (C. oleifera), and I know Japanese women use camellia oil (C. japonica) in their beauty products. Of course the finest teas are from the C. sinensis. It was beautiful just to see patches of the forest alive with white petals and to walk on their fallen blossoms. It was slippery like melting, slushy snow, but smelled much better. I'm not sure which camellia was in bloom as there are hundreds, maybe the Camellia rusticana – Snow Camellia?






That night my friends took us out to eat at Chubby's an American style burger joint in Zhubei across from the High speed train station. I had an over sized, juicy burger with bacon, loads of red onions and blue cheese, it was great, I finished the whole thing. The night's adventure wasn't over yet. Now we were on a quest to find some fireflies, the chances of actually seeing any, getting less by the minute as it was raining and late. We found the lonely mountain road, unlit and dark and as we were descending back down, I thought I saw something out of the corner of my eyes, so we stopped the car and lo and behold there were fireflies beside the river. My friend Fabian caught one for Z and we had a nice time before going back.

Fabian and his wife Stacy (former co-workers) let us crash at their apartment at Erchong (between Zhubei and Zhudong). Z was playing vids w/Fabian, we were drinking wine, catching up, going to bed far too late.





 The next morning our hosts took us to Beipu the Hakka village, where we walked around the old town, checking out the stalls. Z had a royal meltdown, I broke my camera, and we were tired. After a second wind we went to  Emei reservoir, walked around, checked out the enormous golden fat Buddha on the grounds of the gates monastery and walked on a scary suspension bridge.
   




 Deciding whether or not to take this job offer was a tough decision for me. I was seriously going back and forth every few days. The bonus and salary raises (several increments a year) is far better then where I'm at now. But life is more expensive in Hsinchu than Tainan, the weather is much better in Tainan too. I recently resigned my contract here with my school in Tainan -- again. The deciding reason for not taking the job in Jhudong was the one hour lunch break that teachers use to prep (my 2 hour lunch breaks here in Tainan are very sacred) and Z's elementary school in Anping is small and also very good. So it looks like I am in Tainan for now, which is a kind of relief.