Damage Control

I had been advised by my boss to settle amicably, send the injured party a fruit basket before it goes to mediation or court because she can sue me within the next 6 months. Some expat friends told me not to contact her at all, wait and see. I thought basic courtesy was to at least call her and see if she felt better, but I never got the chance.

The English speaking officer assigned to this case called me Monday afternoon and said she wanted 10,000 NT for her scooter damages and we made an appointment to meet for Wednesday. My friend Ellen whose an English teacher at my kid's school, had her insurance lady meet me Monday after school and suffice to say getting basic insurance was painless and fast, but too late.

At our Wednesday show-down I got the meeting place wrong, I was at the Loudong McDonald's and everyone was waiting for me at the Yilan McDonald's. Having to drive back like that stressed me out and then I was hit with the reality that she wanted me to now pay 20,000 NT which came out to 70% of me to blame and 30% her. I agreed. If this went to court I would have to pay the 2 fines of driving without a license and uninsured. I had a customary gift bag, a big prickly pineapple, Taiwanese cake and gourmet local coffee. Everyone was cordial.

 My new insurance lady hand wrote 3 identical documents and we all signed a settlement, she can't sue me. She didn't know I wasn't insured and it would make no difference now if she knew. I paid her 10,000 in cash and will bank transfer the second half next payday. I felt severely shocked, numb that I was paying so much. I saw her scooter damages receipt, so many little things added up. Her scooter is three years old and now is totally new. I paid twice as more in damages as my own scooter is worth. Of course if I were insured the insurance company would of paid it all. That also included her hospital bills which were minuscule, like 480 NT (thank God for the Taiwanese health care system).

I didn't get a decent look at her scooter after the accident but it seemed fine to me. It was her body I was mostly concerned about.

The disappearance in my finances didn't end there. I went to the DMV and was slapped with fees for being late on paying taxes, tolls, inspection tests. They didn't get my new address change either from immigration or the post office, I never received a bill. I had to have let the DMV know I changed my address. They also wouldn't let me change my address until I paid all my bills (which I did, but still need to go back and change my address).

Friday I took my car in to be inspected and was hit with a higher inspection fee for being late and more toll bills that they failed to include in when I was there 4 days before.  In Taiwan there is an electronic tolling system (eTag) where a blue laser scans a sticker on your windshield and accrues to a prepaid account. I still need to find my card (I never got it with my car and forgot to deal with it). Maybe a local car shop where I can put more money on it or 7-11 can give me a new card.

My car didn't pass the inspection. My coworker kindly was there and took me to his mechanic and they fixed my rear right break for 800 NT. We waited for over 2 hours and watched a Danny De Vito/ Rhea Pearlman family movie, "Matilda" based on the kid's book. My kid and I in our predicament laughed out loud in the air conditioned Michelin shop in Loudong. Little things like that, the help of friends and strangers and a cup of great coffee got me thru that Friday afternoon at the end of a crap week. I had planned a weekend massage, but now I can't afford one.

The mechanic and my friend were prepping me for how to pass using the hand-break with the button in and getting through with a prayer. The mechanic in the end took my car back to the DMV testing garage himself (he didn't have to do that) and it passed! I wouldn't know what to do if it didn't; drive a ghost car which means I didn't learn anything or replace the breaking system for 7,000 NT. I have to go and have it inspected every 6 months because the car is over 10 years old.

I paid for 2 return tickets to Borneo and a 2 week holiday but we didn't go anywhere. I'm looking at the big picture, counting my blessings and counting the days 'til we are on a plane to Denver. Until then its living off tutoring money which can be unstable and keeping life even more simple.

Black Friday

This past week has been an unprecedented and ridiculous drain in finances and energy all related to my car. Its thankfully more comical than lamentable. Last Friday I had my first car accident and then it pretty much snowballed from there. The good news is no one is seriously hurt, I learned a lot, technical bits about driving legally, about paying attention to what Chinese year it is and  personal things like I didn't lose my peace because this surprise, inner, minute kernel of joy sustained me like an umbilical cord.  An illusion of self growth, I'm more likely just still shell shocked. That and thinking about my upcoming trip home for a month is the hope at the end of this tunnel.

We were on our way to Loudong for my Friday afternoon work; I teach art and PE to two K2 all day English classes. We had time and I know my kid would be happy if I treated her to McDonalds because we literally ate there 9 months ago. As I was turning into the drive-thru this scooter came out of nowhere. I wasn't going fast as I had to make a sharp right turn, but she was cruising and when I hit her she flew.

It was terrifying. Z and I got out of the car, time slowed down. My daughter was crying, screaming. I told the shocked onlookers in Chinese, "Call 119!" When they didn't my kid yelled at them to call the ambulance. My 9 year old was panicking, I was dead calm in my helplessness. My daughter screamed distraught, "What do I do?" I told her "Pray." I bent down to the young woman, who at first was mistaken for a boy, an onlooker asked if "he" was breathing. She was pale, I think she might of been dead for a moment, all time was suspended, death spun all around us looking for someone to latch on. She went into a seizure, I prayed and gently touched all around the top of her body. Her arm looked broken, wickedly hanging limp on the ground I softly stroked it confirming its wrong distortion. A Black Friday. Waiting for help.

She moaned and wanted to sit up, I told her in Mandarin, "Rest, you shouldn't move." Two Taiwanese ladies came over, with umbrellas and shaded us and told her the same thing. She wanted up and after waiting for the ambulance, we finally helped her sit up. It was a right out miracle she could stand on her feet, her arm had been utterly restored before our eyes. The one side of her body scraped in patches. The ambulance arrived after that, they took her to the hospital. My distraught and crying daughter and I waited for 40 minutes for the police officer who was young and spoke English. People were understanding. The McDonald's had us sit inside for the AC, drinking ice water. I had to endure my own guilt and my daughter repeating how angry she was with me. I took it.

The young lady returned to the scene with her girlfriend. I was awed she was functioning as well as she did. I believe heaven opened up, a ripple, tear in the seams between this world and an other that's all around us. Higher beings had mercy, a perceivable presence gently leading us. Then after telling the first cop my and some witness' testimonies, we had to wait for the other officer to hear it all again, take pictures and follow him to the station. On the drive up, I finally told my daughter to lay off me, I need her on my side. She eased off me after that. All parties waited at the Loudong police station for another 40 minutes, for a special English speaking Foreigner assistance type officer.  There was a third woman whose scooter windshield glass fell out when the ladies scooter slid into this closest scooter.  In the end she didn't ask me to pay her damages (500NT).

I was surprised when I found out inside the police station, my car insurance had expired. It was year 104, really? I still thought it was 103. I don't really think in Chinese years, stupid me. I already knew my US license wasn't valid and there's a fine to drive without a Taiwanese license. I failed the written test and never got around to retaking it. I studied and past the online test six times before taking it, and still I got some lame question about blue trucks. But the Loudong police man, he favored me and let my 14,000 NT fee for lacking basic insurance and the 8,500NT for driving a car sans license, he didn't fine me at all. I was moved. It was hard no to be. No strings attached. The Lion's roar of kindness all around me but I didn't feel much like celebrating.

That night before sleep, Z and I rehashed our experience, a catharsis to release it all out before bed. We both were dumbfounded over her arm, over how good it all really turned out.

The next day driving on our scooter to Loudong for my kid's violin class was a torture for our frayed nerves. It was almost unbearable. It was slightly easier on the drive home. We prayed and thought about this lady all last weekend. I was amazed we didn't get the call she had dropped dead from internal bleeding and yet there's part of me who believes her health after this will be supernaturally better just from this accident. When I say higher powers touched her, I am not meaning figuratively.

Last weekend I sat with guilt from my poor choices, questioned everything. It came to a point on my hammock I stood back detached and watched all these thoughts like on a screen, the stress literally was mind altering in a transcendent way. I'm sure my body didn't agree, as my neck and shoulder froze painfully. My kid snapped, "I will have a license and insurance first before I drive!" I believe her. I would never do that in the States, I let it all sort of slide here and went with the flow out of laziness, lack of kin, men. I obviously needed outside help. I had to admit I wasn't this fully functioning independent woman.

Welcome to Yilan, What's not there to do here?

I updated this section as of June 2016 to add links to other trails, waterfalls, we since have explored.

Nanao Township, Yilan

I've been living in Yilan now for two months and am loving it here. My friend from Tainan came up to visit his wife's family in Yilan and of course we met up. Our biggest obstacle was figuring out which beach, mountain, hot springs, river, lake to spend the day with our kids.

I have a nice map from the very reliable, efficient, English speaking Tourist info center outside the Yilan train station and I've been studying it, ticking off places as I go, asking my new workers their recommendations  and enjoying the pristine outdoors.

Beaches:
I already went to Wulai Beach (see previous post Little Gems) and have been so busy exploring Yilan county, I haven't time to return except last Sunday to see how the coming typhoon was affecting the waves. (The beach patrol wouldn't let us on the beach, so we just admired from afar.)

Yongzhen Park and Trail

Having come from Anping and living literally a two minute scooter ride from the beach, I had to go to the closest beach to me. Its called Yongzhen Seaside Park and its just a 5 minute drive from my work here in  Zhuangwei. There is a nice bike path that goes along the beach. The sand was nice, grey and surprisingly clean. There were breakers that ruined the views down the beach that stretched out into forever in both directions, but this area gets hit pretty hard by typhoons.The beach was empty as it was ghost month when I went. There was a beach patrol station that was probably on freak out mode because we seemed to go far into the waves, but the water was quite shallow. I need to go back and see if people use it since ghost month, bring our bikes and explore that path.

Neipei Beach from the Suhua Highway

I was not expecting Neipei Beach outside Suao to be so stunning. There is no sand, just small pebbles and stones, but the surrounding rocks are gorgeous and the beach is  long enough for us to find some quiet alone time far from the crowds. There are cafes and simple restaurants are on one end for a quick pick me up. The other end has rocks and places to picnic in the shade of a cliff. On a holiday weekend, we had the entire Pacific, at least this bit to ourselves.

My beach list includes is returning to Wulai for surfing and sunrise yoga and to explore Beigan Tidal Park and the Wushibi coast.

Trails
There is a trail outside Nanfang'ao. Just park your car across from the massive pool. At the top are amazing views of the Yilan coast, picnic tables, hammocks. I am thinking it would make a great camping spot.

Yilan Coast view from a hike

The Linmei Shihpan Trail (林美石磐薄荷烤雞餐廳) is simple, about an hour loop with a pretty little waterfall. There is one set of verticle trails, but other than that is a perfect trail for young children.

There is also the Caoling Historic Trail,  various trails in Taipingshan National Park (behind Taroko), and in Yuanshan Township.

Gardens:

View from Renshan Gardens

Between Loudong and Suao is the Renshan Botanic Garden (宜蘭仁山植物園). It was nothing what I expected. I expected something like the Botanic Gardens in Taipei or Denver, but this place was huge. I think we entered it wrong and before we knew it, we were doing some hardcore hiking with little water or preparation, The grounds are massive.

We didnt see a single soul for hours until the end. The French and English style gardens were in the bare minimalist style, nothing was in bloom, but we saw macaques,and  alien looking spiders. The view from Renshan to Turtle island with the verdant, fertile valley of the Yilan plain is the quintessential picture of Yilan.

On my garden list to do is explore the Fushan Botanical Gardens west of Yilan City in Yuanshan, which requires a special permit.

Waterfalls:
I went twice to the famous Wufongqi waterfalls and returned to that area and hiked another trail to the more impressive, hard to get to Yuemeikeng Waterfalls.

Outside Loudong there are two waterfalls the upkept Xinliao Waterfalls down the road from the Renshan Botanic Gardens.

Xinliao Waterfalls

Down the road is the less impressive Jiulio Waterfalls, but because they were empty and we were the only ones there, I liked having it all to myself. The trail hasnt been taken care of, but its a nice path, overgrown and neglected. The pool is shallow but enjoyable enough for kids. Standing under the falls for a neck massage is a nice treat.

Jiulio Falls

Aohua Falls

There are so many waterfalls in the area, I'm learning about more all the time. The most impressive were south of Nan-ao called the Aohua Waterfalls outside the little aboriginal village of the same name. The pool is massive, the falls are massive. The brave can climb the slippery wall and jump into the cold, mineral abyss.

Linmei Shipah Waterfall

Lakes:
The first lake I went to here was Longtan Lake. It was recommended by my coworker Steve who helped me get a job and my first apartment in Yilan. This lake is conveniently close to Yilan, we went by scooter. We rented bikes, it was casual. Unfortunately cars can drive around the one lane which is dangerous and noisy, especially with so many bikers, joggers and walkers. I've been meaning to return with a yoga mat and a picnic basket.

Longtan Lake

The second lake I went to also conveniently close to Yilan City is Plum Blossom (Mei Hua) Lake. Its more crowded with numerous bike outfitters to rent the most outrageous bikes. There were side by side 2 and 4 seaters, of course electric bikes. I saw a bike with  4-5 seats in the shape of a Cinderella carriage.

Meihua Lake

There are many lakes I hope to check out, some include difficult hikes. I'm still working on a list. Yuanshan has several lakes with hikes and fishing.

Meihua Lake

Parks:
Conveniently right by my home is the massive Yilan Sport's Park. There is a track, Olympic size outdoor pool, weight room, rollerblading track and outside gymnasium. Not to mention fireflies at night. Loudong's Sports Park is supposedly better, but I'm satisfied with the one outside my front door.

Yilan Sport Park

We thoroughly are enjoying Yilan on our weekends. There is plenty to do. Did I mention the mineral springs? Yilan has both cold and hot springs. That will have to be another post.