A Change in Altitude

At the end of April, my kid went on a 3 night/4day long hiking expedition in central Taiwan, hitting the peaks of Hehuan Mountain(合歡山) between Nantou and Hualien. It was organized by Yilan County public schools and several students from some of the elementary schools participated. Her hiking troop had been training in Jiaoxi all the previous month. I dropped her off at the crack of dawn and their little bus drove all the way to Puli, stopping at a farm and random Ukranian Horse show, before heading further up Route 14 to Wuling Pass.

Taken by Z her first night

Training

It was the first time she and I had been separated for so long in her dozen years. The first day was weird, bizarre, I was so conscious of thinking about her constantly in the back of my mind. I had always assumed being single was being alone, I'm parenting alone and have identified so strongly in parenting alone (how could I not?).

In fact, I'm so immersed in parenting, I am hardly alone. I tried to distract myself by walking the dogs more frequently and longer than usual, and doing more yoga (than usual) which helps me be in the moment.

It's not like she never spent the night away from me before but anticipating our 4 day separation, that first day was so eerily quiet. In my daughter withdrawal, I couldn't help feel for my bro who recently lost his daughter, my niece who was 33 days younger than my Z.

The second day was better, I was still wondering about her at the back of my mind, but it had receded its ferocity. I was still walking the dogs, doing yoga and had also reclaimed my garden back from the snails. I joked I would redeem my ironing pile (itself a growing mountain), once and for all, but fortunately was enjoying my time enough I never got to it.

Hehuan North Peak is #34 of Taiwan's 100 peaks

 All in all, they climbed the north, west and east peaks of Hehuan (合歡山) which means mountain of harmonious joy) as well as the easier Shimen Mountain (石門山). Going from sea level to 11,207 feet sounded pretty intense. A boy from another school slipped and broke his leg. The rescue team had to bring him down on a stretcher. My daughter's teachers and classmates suffered from altitude sickness, the kids were puking and the teachers sucking on oxygen tanks. Thankfully my Colorado born kid was fine. In fact, she sais it smelled just like Colorado, which really is a thing. I'm pretty jealous I couldn't tag along as one of the other mothers did, but I had to work.

She was sure relieved to be home and I was so grateful she came back healthy. I had homemade banana chocolate cookies waiting for her. Unfortunately, early the next day she had to be at the train station bright and early for another school excursion to an aboriginal (Atayal) school, on a cultural learning field trip. They learned traditional dances and made some Atayal food.



I think the lack of sleep had run her down, she stayed home for the next two days to rest. One of those days, I came home from work to find, she had baked me a surprise banana pudding cake. Who doesn't love edible surprises from their child? Being her mom has its sweet moments.

Tea Afoot in Jiufen 九份

I've been meaning to check out Jiufen 九份 since moving to Yilan, but the threat of swarms of tourists held me back. It's infamous for its historical tea houses and picturesque old streets that were the backdrop in such films as City of Sadness and Hayao Miyazaki's  Spirited Away 神隱少女.

Going during the 4 day Children's Festival/Tomb Festival weekend was guaranteed to be packed, but I live on the edge (joke). We hopped on a local train from Yilan to Ruifang that took about an hour.

The bus from Ruifang station was standing room only for us as we held on for dear life, speeding up the curving road to Jiufen. Our hotel was surprisingly easy to find on a climbing stone path that deviated from the old street bazaar chaos.

Pu-er 普洱茶 Princess

After checking in (YuanYee Homestay), around 4pm we gathered our courage and braved the currents of the crowds. I spied the famous old 九份茶坊  tea house and whisked my kid into the found refuge and quiet. It was a different world and time from the stampede of the old street. As you enter there is a row of boiling kettles on a long bed of coals, tea cups and sets, moss, a pond, waterfall and ceramics shop in the basement. I wanted to sit outside with the view, she wanted to sit on the antique wooden table, so we sat inside. (We ended up coming back again our second day after our hike, it was such a priceless atmosphere.)

At the start of the trail to Teapot Mt.

My daughter was in heaven. Our hostess explained how to make our tea according to tradition, soon my kid  was in charge of all the tea preparation. We were starving having not eaten since breakfast but we stayed at the tea shop til dusk, stopped at a noodle hole in the wall along the way for dinner and back to our hotel, played cards in our room. Living in Taiwan we had friends who regularly served us tea when we came over, we drink tea at home too (oolong, Chai, British style) so tea is important. We took a class on Korean tea preparation when we were in Busan and now here we were finally in Jiufen. Z quipped, "Mom can I have a new hobby of drinking tea?" An emphatic YES!

Post hike tea

My plan was to get up bright and early to take photos of the famous cross streets in front of the old Theater.  We had such terrible sleep from the young group across from us partying through the night, we didn't make it early enough for my photo opp. Instead we did make it early (first in line at the ticket counter) for the Gold Museum (formally the Gold Ecological Park) in Jinguashi 金瓜石. Just take the Jiufen bus to the end of the line. The museum grounds are extensive and require a ticket plus extra fees if you want to go inside one of the tunnels or pan for gold (which we did).

The blissfully empty shinto shrine

I was ecstatic being there before the crowds because it eventually was like a festival. I really wanted to see the Japanese relics of the old shinto shrine. All that's left were 2 stone torii gates, the foundation, some pillars and some stone lanterns. It was a nice 20 minute hike with an incredible view. We were the only ones there (for a while).

Teapot Mountain

That little hike wasn't enough for me. I saw Teapot Mountain like a sandstone and shale crown across the valley and I was determined to check it out. My daughter was less enthused. After she panned for gold (and yes there were flecks of probably fake gold) and went inside the tunnels, she was so appreciative she hiked Teapot without complaint. We were both energized. At the top you can rock climb in the crags with a rope. The views along the way were exceptional. The path starts behind the bridge at the far end of the Gold Mining park, below where the air pumps are displayed.

So many nice views on the way up Teapot

You could drive to the last bit to the peak, there's a road and trail starting from the beach, driving would be cheating. It was only a 75 minute walk up and with several covered rest areas to admire the view, which she needed. We returned to the old tea house in Jiufen and sampled a different variety, sitting outside to please me.

We had better sleep that night and took our time the next morning. After our complimentary breakfast we decided to walk up Jilong Mountain 九份雞籠山. before checking out. The path begins not far from where we were staying just beside the cemetery. People were already cleaning their family tombs as we passed them. The hike up Jilong was crowded and unshaded. It was all steps. Fortunately for us the path forked and we took the longer route (go left). It was the right choice. We had supreme views of the sea, it was shaded and even better, was devoid of walkers. The top was also crowded but not massed, we could enjoy the view for a good twenty minutes or so munching on apricots. We decided again to take the long way back through the shade and with the views.

Quick hike after breakfast before checking out 九份雞籠山.

After checking out of our hotel, we went to the train station and bought a ticket to Houtong to check out the infamous Cat Village. The train was about to leave but so many bodies were smashed together, I don't think we could of possibly squeezed in, nor did we want to try. We'll save Cat Village for another day. I imagine its more of a tourist trap than even Jiufen. Yet, for being a notorious tourist trap, my daughter and I were rewarded with more excellent memories. It was worth giving Jiufen a chance.

Reverence and Rituals Incarnate: Christmas and New Year

It was that time of year again. If I didn't live with a little spirited elf myself,  I can't imagine Christmas being as jolly or meaningful while experiencing it in Taiwan. You certainly have to cultivate the season of holiness. Its all "Jingle Bells" and "We Wish You" and not enough "Angels We Have Heard on High".

The Yilan weather is more conducive to reflection; with it's somber, sunless skies, the nebulous storm clouds obscure the life source. One light piercing the gloom, a solitary candle in a bitter twilight rain. This is the spirit of Christmas, minus the snow and family. (I couldn't imagine Christmas south of the equator, more like a summer BBQ, but I certainly would give it a try.)

Winter in Taiwan starts with the winter solstice and everyone having to eat the traditional sweet date soup with sticky rice balls (tang yuan). Every school I worked for has served it with lunch. It supposed to mean a year of good luck. I took my 7th grade class caroling to the nearest elderly retirement home, which was a tender experience of connecting with the community for everyone. (Read about it here.)

My arms are too short for selfies!

Christmas Day was austere and subdued. My friend from Tainan made the trip north so it was more festive sharing the seasonal traditions, opening presents by the tree, meditate the blue twinkling lights at night and catch up on midnight merrymaking, Christmas ale toasts and a cornucopia of conversation.

We had a fabulous Boxing Day hike in the Yilan wonderland. The Caoling  Historic Trail (草嶺古道) has been on my list of DO's since moving here. We took the train to Gongliao, rented bikes and biked to the trail head. My kid uphill on a bike was slow going, but she was a real trooper and didn't give up.

We biked along this river for a bit

Then we hiked to Dali.  There were a few interesting rockbound places to rest.

We saw wild grouse, macaques and load of birds  I must learn their names.

A troupe of macaques live in the trees where the silver grass covers the hills

It wasn't blue skies, but it didn't rain, so it was cold enough to dry our sweat at the top and clear enough to see the ocean. Perfect hiking weather.

Views from the top, looking down onto Dali

Best of all we had the whole trail to ourselves, which was surprising considering its such a famous trail and not that far from Taipei.

The next day we decided to soak our weary bones in the hot springs of nearby Jiaoxi.  We lunched at the Slow Train Cafe . There's a reason its called slow, but the coffee was amazing. The ingredients are fresh and we ordered paninis, but it was pretty spare on the fillings- too much bread.

A Grateful Dead dinner at Slobber's

We took  a ten minute train ride and walked to one of our favorite spa hotels but they moved shop. It wasn't a far walk to their new abode but along the way we passed The Art Spa Hotel that Z and I always wanted to check out (because of their massive 4 story winding water slide) so we just decided to give this place a try.  It was mad fun. Z played with the kids in the children's area which was basically a playground submerged in a kiddie pool, while us adults  rotated to different spa treatments, pools and saunas. I got one try down the slide and my kid had 2 (it was a massive line). Living so close we we vowed to return.

The New Years Weekend was entirely a relaxing, sybaritic 3 day weekend. We couldn't rouse the energy to visit Tainan, even with the promise of catching up with old friends, better restaurant options and the Chi Mei museum. Being stuck in traffic in the tunnels on the way to Taipei and circumstancing the zoo of Taipei Main station, the jacked ticket prices for high-speed train south- nah.

New Years Eve dinner was Italian at the Caffe Grazzie in Luna Plaza. Its the only place we can get arugula and we are nuts for it.

New Years Eve dinner, Cafe Grazie. The past has gone,welcome the better year. May you achieve anything your heart desires this new year!過去已矣，來者可追，願新的一年，大家心想事成!

The first day of the year, the sun surmounted the spell of gloom like a promise. So we went to Yuanshan for a leisurely hike. There are several trails near my kid's school that they often take for an extended PE class, so she was my guide. I had a blast. We bought organic oranges from a school mate whose mom was picking them in their family orchard. We caught up on her favorite TV show "Supergirl" and drank pots of chai.  I thoroughly enjoyed her company and didn't regret spending the holiday weekend solely with her without distraction of work or chores. What an undeniable gift.

Post RV and Rocky Mountain High Recap

The view from Mt. Evans

It took a day or two to catch up on sleep once we returned to civilization. I did not miss sleeping in the RV at all, it was amazing to be home. My parents' guest bed is a million times more comfortable than my beds in Taiwan.  I spared no time and quickly got online and starting ordering goods I couldn't get in Taiwan and calling friends to make plans.


One of the observations my daughter made about the States, or at least where we were was, "There's so many white people here!" Which one of my brothers found hilarious. For me I noticed how much worse the traffic was, how everyone has smart TVs and bluetooth their cell phones to theirs cars and of course there were all the green cross shops from marijuana legalization.

High above Berthoud Pass

 America is more comfortable generally. I ate well to say the least. While all my friends were avoiding carbs at all costs for health reasons, I was happy to eat spelt tortillas and bread. I couldn't get enough. Unlike bread in Taiwan, one slice with organic butter is all you need to be satiated. I was having turkey melts for lunch, with New Mexican green chili. That was one intention I did do as planned, eat green chili for every meal. I had it with my eggs, my lunch, my dinner.

 I embraced my inner hobbit and had 2 breakfasts and 2 dinners; or one breakfast, one brunch, lunch, supper, dinner and dessert. Suffice to say I gained 2 kg, which is fine with me (and totally noticeable as I'm so short) because I had the creamiest yogurts, kefir, cottage cheese with peaches and blueberries, Ben and Jerry's ice-creams- my bones were stocking up on all the calcium I ate from the dairy. (Here in Yilan I hardly eat dairy, a little yogurt or kefir as its expensive at the local Santa Cruz health store.) I had so much cheese as my mom gets raw cheddar. It was fabulous.

 I went to the gym almost everyday with my Mom for a Zumba class, which was fun if the teacher was decent. I caught one amazing yoga class with my friend who taught it and mostly did yoga in my folks' backyard. I wanted to do a massive morning yoga class at Red Rocks, but they were all sold out, so before I left CO, my friend and I went to a Yoga Journal sponsored Yoga Rocks the Park downtown taught  by Amy Ippoliti. It was incredible. I was inspired to walk in wheel pose, see the demonstration here.

Hiking at Chataqua, Boulder

 Sadly I didnt do half the things or catch up with half the people I wanted to.  I had this brainstorm of places to go and things to do, and who to do it with- but its ok, resting at home, my daughter playing with her cousin, me trying to bake at altitude (upside down lemon cake, zucchini bread with goji berries and pumpkin seeds) and cook (chicken tandori, biriyani) was relaxing.

Bear Creek Lake.

 We had wanted to go to Water World, Elitches (an amusement park), but never made it. However my friend took us to Bear Creek Lake where our kids could play and we could catch up. It was blistering hot that day, I stayed under an umbrella most of the time, the sun at altitude was intense, but every afternoon like clockwork there was summer thunderstorm. I love the crackle of thunder right over head, the Thor dazzling lightening,  The weather the whole time was in a word-perfection. It wasn't too hot (80F/ 24-26C) and in the evening and night it got chilly. My daughter liked to say, "This is like winter in Yilan!" She loved it. People, kept on telling us how hot it was "just the other day", but we didnt really see it. What a relief not to be melting in the sweltering Tropic of Cancer humidity. It felt more like the end of September than August, autumn is early. Colorado was uncharacteristically green due to a monsoon summer, El Nido no doubt. Everyone agreed winter will be intense this year.  I hate to miss the aspens change color.

Hail Out of Nowhere 2
They had a blast gathering hail for cranberry snow cones! I was weary for them, with the thunder and lightening.
Posted by Kathy Benavides on Monday, August 10, 2015

 It was just like Colorado weather to unleash a mighty hail storm for my daughter to experience. I pitied anyone caught in it, it would be painful. My daughter and niece braved the hail under a massive umbrella and gathered buckets of it which they later ate with condensed cranberry juice, heaven's own slushie.

View from our campsite

We had another family camping weekend at YMCA's Snow Mountain Ranch in my parent's pop up. During a short hike to a waterfall we saw a mama moose with her calf just a few yards away, it was indubitably memorable. I felt honored that this massive animal let us be so close to her precious baby. I've seen elk before but never moose, let a lone at this close range. My sister in law, got great video of the calf, I only saw it on the way down from the waterfall and my photo unfortunately was too blurry.

We saddled up in the morning and went on a trail through the mountain forests. The scenery was stunning, relaxing. We stopped for ice-cream in Empire on the way up and for views of Berthoud Pass on the return trip back to Denver.

Views overlooking Boulder

 My trip would be incomplete without more hikes and a trip to Boulder to catch up with friends. I hiked the flat irons at Chataqua in my mom's clogs which wasn't ideal and I def felt the altitude having to stop a few times, but it was worth the views and exercise in the end.

Z had to see Red Rocks! Maybe next time we can catch a show

My Dad took my daughter and I to Mt. Evans, which has the highest paved road in America, far above tree line. The views are usually extraordinary, with big horn sheep and the Rocky Mountains extending as far as the eyes can see in all directions, but because of forest fires in Washington State and Oregon, the visibility was compromised. It was still stunning and cold despite the sunny day, the wind chill made it 45 F (7 C). My daughter was cold and the altitude made her dizzy. As is our tradition, we went down to Echo Lake at the base of America's highest road and had some famous pie at the Lodge while watching the alpine hummingbirds feed out the windows.

My Dad and daughter, Mt. Evans

Later we went fishing. My kid has been lucky in Taiwan to catch fish easily with her little bamboo pole, but for some reason her patience was tested with these brown trout. It took  several hours for her to catch 2 brown trout while everyone around us seemed to be reeling them in. I had a few bites myself I failed to hook. The real kicker was when the fisherman on site was teaching my kid how to gut a fish. She was utterly disgusted, but being the adventurous epicure I know she is I dared her to eat one of the beating fish hearts and she did. She popped it in her mouth like a little raspberry, 'Temple of Doom' style. I knew she would, she's eaten fish eyes, grasshoppers, some kin of larvae caterpillar and  crickets before. That kid won't do anything she doesn't want to.

Z ate a fish heart while it was still pumping! She caught 2 brown trout (after much time and effort) and when the guy was teaching her how to gut it, I I dared her. She chewed it up! Haha!
Posted by Kathy Benavides on Friday, August 21, 2015

One of the things my daughter hankered to do was eat at the nearby Fondue Restaurant. She's been keen to eat Fondue the past year after reading about Switzerland and wanting to live there when she's an adult.  It was my first time at the Melting Pot, although it's in my neighborhood, I suppose its slightly been out of my price range or occasion. Anyways, it was expensive, but amazing. We shared a few dishes and were stuffed. I enjoyed a local Denver cider with the mouth watering white wine, Gruyere, blue cheese, whatever it was, which was perfect with green apple, strawberries, anything. It was the ultimate delectable experience. It reminded me of Hot Pot places in Taiwan, all the family gathered around heated pots of vegetables and meats, except fondue, chocolates and cheeses are so much more appetizing. I doubt Taiwanese would like to eat there as the place is haunted, they have ghost dinners for Halloween and the staff testified to their own personal close encounters.

Dip it good!

My folks, it will be their 42nd anniversary the beginning of September

The day before we had to fly out of DIA, all 4 of my brothers and their kids got together in the park, which had prior been impossible with everyone's schedules. My little nieces and nephews are beyond cute, precious and of course I think they are all extremely intelligent. We ended the day with chicken wings and beer, the restaurant had the Bronco cheerleaders and mascot so my daughter and niece got some posters and autographs, a great souvenir for her, although the meaning is lost on her not having grown up at the mercy of Bronco season.

The first time my kid tried Gatorade, which boggled my brothers

Z with Miles the Mascot

The highlight of my trip of course was spending time with family and resting. The entire time in the forefront of my mind was when and how I would settle back in Colorado. I cried when I said goodbye to my grandparents, because tears ran down my grandpa's face when he said, "I probably will never see you again," implying they will die soon. It wasn't pleasant to leave him like that. It wasn't pleasant to leave America as it turned out, but that's another story.

Uncle Mike behind the camera, and some of the Benavides clan, Albuquerque.

Above the clouds: New Years Day in Taipingshan

Snow in Taiwan!

My New Year's Eve was mellow. I was in bed on the 31st by 10 pm. My life here in Yilan M-F is exhausting. Come Friday night I am passed out on my sofa if I didn't make it to my bed. But the early bird gets the worm and we were up and out the door early January 1st on our way to Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area- the closest park to the more popular and photogenic Taroko National Park.

My friend AJ drove which was a relief because once in the park, there was zero visibility as we climbed the mountain road switchback in a permanent cloud. We literally couldn't see more than 15-20 feet, it was a bit scary as local drivers are not as safety oriented- no light and as fast as possible. We passed a few accidents and had a few close calls.

Finally after reaching higher altitude, maybe after 22 km on the main  (and only) park road, we drove above the clouds and the views were glorious. We got out at the first trail to stretch our legs, it was an easy 20 minute walk, not much of a hike along an ancient, twisted train track dating back to the cypress logging days.

Train wreck! Love the moss and the view from there are glorious mountains as far as the eye can see.

We continued driving further into the park, past the lake where all the people were and hit an outer trail- Beech Trail. It started our fairly flat the first hour and then descended straight down. The return meant coming back on an almost vertical ascent, but that part had steps. It provided a good workout and lovely views of the clouds rolling below us in and out of the curves of Prussian Blue mountain ranges.

We ended our day when it quickly started getting dark, like around 4:30. We decided to try our luck at the hot springs near the entrance. Having been here before we knew the parking lot is small and we wanted to chance getting a private outdoor pool. Knowing it was a holiday weekend, we drove in and were stopped by traffic. It took about 10 minutes to get into the parking lot which was full and had several big buses from Taipei taking up a lot of room, and probably pools. Still we found a space in the dirt parking lot they carved out near the river below, We got lucky and a private outdoor "Family" pool was available in 40 minutes- just enough time to refuel on surprisingly good food and a cup of super strong coffee.

Our private room, the outdoor view was more like a giant window letting the dark forest at night.

The hot spring water was piping hot, we had to add more cold water, but soon were soaking away our body blues from both sitting in the car too long and from the exertion from our hike. It was perfect and the 50 minutes for 1000NT went by too soon. 

We made it back to Yilan and had enjoyed the rest of our 4 day New Years weekend, chillaxing and eating out. Actually I can't remember what we did, 17 days ago seems like another season after the week I had.....to be continued.

Lofty dreams for 2015 inspired by standing on the pinnacle of a colossal view