Yilan: A good Thing Going, Why Change?

I just turned down that job in Taitung- not that I had it in the bag for sure. The last message I got at lunch about an hour ago was they were going to have another meeting to decide between me and another woman who is already in Taitung. I replied, "Let me make it easier for you all, I've decided to stay in Yilan." I felt such a relief.  Then I got another message that he was working with HR to hire us both. Oh well. Wish I could of figured it out before being on a train for 9 hours.

Passing Thru the Rift Valley

I don't know if the nearly 5 hour train ride there had knocked the stars out of my eyes, or what, but I just wasn't that impressed. I was getting the sinking feeling I was going to be a slave again, and I've been so free since Chinese New Year. There seemed to be a lot of unknowns and mixed messages and I came away from it overburdened with confusion. The presence or absence of peace is a major indicator which way I decided. Of course my ego is like, "I want this" because of past rejection, because of it been under a formidable leader for sustainable development in Taitung, because my kid could go to a Waldorf school, because its aligned with my personal values, was the biggest thing for me.

On the train ride back (another 4 1/2 hours) I realized I have a good thing going here in Yilan. Why would I give that up?

1. I think the climate in Yilan is better. I don't mind the rain, I quite enjoy it and this year hasn't been as bad as everyone warned. I don't have to exaggerate that each day is fresh and smells amazing.  Its pleasantly cool and sunny. I'm glad I'm not melting in the dry polluted airs of Tainan. If that means dumping liters of water out of my dehydrator everyday so be it. Everything but the parking here is serene.

2. My kid goes to an awesome school. Her class size is small in comparison to most schools, and they seem to balance academic, music and sports.  My kid was having trouble in math (she got an 80% on her midterm, which is basically failing by Asian standards), so now the school appointed a volunteer tutor (fabulous lady) twice a week to help her after school for an hour. I don't need to go to an after school anchingban or hire a tutor. She plays recorder every morning and guitar on Friday and she has half days twice a week.

 Her school is amazing, very supportive from the get go, and my kid isn't the easiest of students to have in your class. There's the language and cultural barrier with me as her mom, that takes extra time. I've been having growing pains with her homeroom teacher who is young and inexperienced. She called me into  a meeting a month ago for Z's attitude. To my dismay my daughter was organizing a class revolt, instigating the class to reject teacher's homework assignments. She would stand up and say, "This is too much work, who thinks we can do less, let's all unite and tell teacher..." I wonder where she gets it from? I had to explain that her class isn't a Democracy (maybe teacher can try "Flipping"), teacher is the captain and there will be no mutinies.  And there hasn't been since.

There was a recent incident, where her teacher made flippant, disrespectful comments, but she apologized (sort of, not to me, but to my translator and the principals) and blamed her statements on being seriously grieved, her grandmother just died. Fair enough. we all have our moments. She wants another meeting and is big on using LINE, so I think boundaries are an issue, I don't mind enforcing boundaries from time to time.

Long train ride, digging our heels in

The Waldorf school in Taitung just didn't sell it to me as a parent. The kids in that elementary school don't write until 3rd grade, my kid is currently top of her class in Mandarin (midterms 2 weeks ago), why would I want her Mandarin to slip and become mediocre? That's one of THE big benefits of living here. They also don't use any books or technology in grades 1-6, which I think is excessive. My kid is a bibliophile and spent the time of my interview and demo in their (small) library.

Also, the foreign teachers in the Waldorf school in Taitung, are trying to bring more sports into their curriculum as they, "Have more aboriginal kids from the  mountains who need to run around." Also foreign staff see the importance of team building and sportsmanship. So if they aren't big on books or computers and apparently sports, what exactly do they do? If its run around wild, enjoying the fresh air and nature, doing art, my kid does that literally everyday already. I dont need to move to Taitung for that.

3. My current job is also pretty darn good. I work for a Canadian guy with kids whose been here for years and he has loyal employees. He is easy to talk to, assumes the best, gives teachers a lot of flexibility and on his word, promised more hours next semester. It is also a relief to work for him. No managerial good cop-bad cop games.

Breakfast burritos on the train

I got the impression that there was too much internal conflict with the staff in Taitung between progressives and old school minded educators. I assumed because of the high profile leader and his reformist values that everyone would be on the same page or they would at least hire educators with similar forward looking values, but apparently that is not the case. I was forewarned to be "flexible".

I also got the impression that there was no real defined point between being  teacher and having a life outside the school. We had to spend at least an evening in the dorms providing that homey atmosphere they need and also that night 2 teachers had evening classes until 7:30.

 I have a kid, my off time is my time to be with her. I think its possible to be a good teacher, even be a parental role model without taking away my family time, but I got the impression that would be an issue if I took that job.

I like how much free time I have at the moment. I will be able to say how many hours more I want next semester. Not everyday I' m thinking.

4. My current living environment is fabulous. My apartment building is new and I'm across the street from the most sublime park in all of Yilan County, if not all of Taiwan (see Yilan's Best Kept Secret). I also started regularly going back to the gym for TRX and kettlebell classes, even Tainan wasn't offering that when I left it 9 months ago. I also think Yilan has way more bike trails than Taitung and better weather to bike in. (See Living Clean in Yilan and What's Not To Do).

5. Plans for going home in August remain. I dont have to put anyone out or change schedules. I need to go home and see my grandparents and not worry about making waves with a new job. My current boss is supportive.

What a relief to be happy exactly where I am!

Holy Surprise! Jah is Good Everyday

Looks like I'm going to Taitung on Wednesday. A three hour train ride there and four ride back. Harsh but necessary.Z will probably tag along. Why the midweek, last minute trip?

This afternoon, I just got a surprise, out of the blue phone call and I was in happy tears, jumping around my living room!! Someone I met 2 years ago in Taitung, remembered me, saw my blog and called me. We were going for the same job at Stanley Yen (嚴長壽) 's Junyi Bilingual school, (he got the job- ). Now they want me. (Read, Tantalizing Taitung)

 The elementary school is totally Waldorf now, the  Middle School is halfway there. The salary is same as the one I had here at the bilingual school in Yilan,which is significantly better than my part time situation at the moment.  Z's tuition for the semester would be what I was paying Chung Dau every month (wonderful!).

Thankfully I hadn't booked flights back home for our August trip yet, that sort of is all up in the air. There is no way we are NOT going home, but when we do will be a factor. I am not even thinking about the stress of moving again. The move to Yilan from Tainan was boatloads harder than I expected, but we have seriously less stuff now, so for someone reason I am not concerned about another move, perhaps because its "meant to be."

I'm rushing ahead. There is still the whole process to go through again, a demo and interview that needs to be successfully completed. But I am as ever hopeful. 

Why the massive elation? 
1.) Its in Taitung, need I say more?

2.) Stanley Yen (嚴長壽) is THE mover and shaker in Taiwanese education reform. To be under his visionary leadership for my own personal values, would be like a firecracker under my wings igniting the flame of purpose. Imagine being that passionate about a job again. Its only in the void of terrible to mediocre to better than average leadership that you recognize a trail blazer, visionary when you meet him face to face.

3.) Z could go to a Waldorf school 

4.) Z could go to a Waldorf school with Aboriginal students 

I must confess that the one time Z saw me cry and in public was on the train leaving Hualien to Taipei when I found out I didn't get that job 2 years ago. I was just so pining for it. She remembers it to this day. I suppose being a single mom I have "be strong" and all that, breaking down for a good cry only occasionally, when she is asleep. She is absolutely fascinated by wanting to see me cry, she often mentions wanting to capture it on video recording which is extreme. I guess I saw my parents cry a
lot because my brother was often in the hospital, in ICU. I'm not trying to be unreal, inauthentic, I'm not the crying type to begin with. But on that train out of Hualien, when I found out they gave the job to the guy who already lives in Taitung -who happens to be getting me this job now- I let the tears roll down my face in front of everyone. As the cycle of tears keeps turning, today those tears were happy. I was moved this guy remembered me from 2 years ago and would seek me out, compliment my blogs, recognize that I share the same values, want me on his team, on Stanley Yen's team no less. 

Who doesn't love lightening bolt news out of the blue? But I do especially. Le't hope for more tears of joy.

Tantalizing Taitung

View from Junyi School

Somewhere over the rainbow, there is a less oppressive, creative education system in Taiwan, starting with reversing the brain drain in Taitung. So said my friend Tony when he invited me last minute to Taitung with him for the weekend. How could I refuse meeting uber interesting people, when Shu-min, Tony's wife would take care of my daughter? It was all systems go! I love last minute getaways, thats when the magic happens.

The trip was all leading up to meeting Taiwanese celebrity and visionary Stanley Yen (嚴長壽). He is this self made, self educated hotel mogul whose passion is education reform and mindful sustainable development of Taiwan's east coast. He was the one during DPP president Shui-Bien's term  who fought against the construction of a super highway from Taipei to Taitung, because he didn't want this last vestige of pristine nature corrupted into another Kaohsiung or even (gulp) Tainan. Although Stanley is part of the system (he was hanging with his good friend, first lady Christine Chow Ma the day before checking out the art scene in Dulan); Stanley in many ways fights against the traditional mainstream establishment by constantly reconstructing his beliefs and makes his mark on Taiwanese society by transforming people's thinking. He definitely is not shy about using his platform. For him sustainable development starts with education reform. Stanley Yen's (嚴長壽) education reform experiment, is the Junyi School for Innovative Learning, which is a 1st through 12th grade bilingual school in Taitung. 

Upon arrival we were escorted to dinner by two of Stanley Yen's (嚴長壽)'s right hand women from his NGO  The Alliance Cultural Foundation. Mei is associated with Junyi School and Cheryl Robbins is a consultant, author and licensed tour manager and guide (Tribe-Asia) with a passion/expertise for Taiwanese aboriginal culture.

Mei, Me and Cheryl after the Spoon de Chop performance

 On the menu, fresh marlin! With just the food alone, Taitung is already tastier than Tainan. Nothing beats  fresh caught deep sea food from the Pacific rather than fish farmed bla from Tainan. It was more than I could handle, Tony helped me clean my plate.We waddled back to the open aired farmer's market and caught the rest of "Okinawa Night" at the outdoor stage of Tiehua Village. Cold Okinawa beer, Orion, hit the spot on this sweaty, humid Taitung night. We caught the last band Spoon de Chops. The music was a sublime mix of modern and traditional Ryukyuan folk music with the 3 stringed lute sanshin, and taiko drums. It was a very fun, intimate show, laid back and unpretentious  I met the owner of Tiehua Village and then the lead singer after the show.

Watch video bit of show here.

That night I slept well in the female dorms. 



 In the morning Mei gave us the grand tour of Junyi school and Cheryl acted as translator. Stanley Yen  (嚴長壽) arrived  earlier than expected, which was a good thing, because we all got a good hour or two to chat before heading out together for lunch. Of course I was nervous to meet the legendary Stanley Yen (嚴長壽). But he was so unassuming and humble and so incredibly sincere and engaging, I was immediately put at ease. He talked to me as an equal confident. I could see myself work hard for, bloom under this higher vision of education reform united with indigenous led sustainable development. How rewarding to not just work for a paycheck or even just the students, but a grander, long term vision. He was very candid and to the point, which was a refreshing change from Taiwanese leaders and managers that I have known.

The school itself was impressive, a Japanese architectural design fitted with a roof of solar panels, that contributes energy to the local power station. There are uplifting quotes dotting the grounds, a small farm, outdoor covered gymnasium and a pond. How familiar to see a picturesque mountain range in the background. The students and staff had read the popular book, The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People (Stephen R. Covey), which was just a little shocking for me imagining how to teach this to 1st graders. Interestingly, it was the older students who were more resistant to the books maxims and the younger ones who were more open. He wants all his students to be ethical leaders. One of the things that won me over is Stanley's allowing part of the student body to be from economically disadvantaged indigenous, communities. He was frank on the both the good and bad aspects of that experience and how to improve upon his desire for inclusiveness.

Stanley took us all out for lunch at a cafe behind Tiehua Village, where there was more stimulating conversation.

Cheryl Robbins, me, Tony Coolidge and Stanley Yen (嚴長壽)

After lunch and goodbyes, we went across the street to the air conditioned Esl-lite Bookstore where we could see Cheryl's 3rd book newly published on the shelf.  Cheryl Robbins is an amazing and interesting, groundbreaking character in her own right. Originally from California, she married a Taiwanese man, had 2 sons, divorced and is so fluent in Mandarin she has worked as a translator before she became the first foreigner and woman to pass the Taiwanese government test to be a tour guide/manager. She easily connected with me, being divorced so long as to be a single mom, and we shared more than a few laughs about the dating scene (or lack thereof), men and the vibe of Taitung. She is passionate about sharing Taiwanese aboriginal culture by providing intimate tours of local mountain villages and knows  all the elders, chieftains, and dates of every festival (and there are loads up and down the East coast in summer). Her scene isn't the counter cultural, artsy foreigner vibe of Dulan, though she walks the beaches, but the remote mountain villages. I felt grateful to make her acquaintance. 

With her 3rd travel book on Taiwan's indigenous, this one focused on Taitung.

Will I back in Taitung and will the stay be more permanent? Time will tell, but I hope so.

On cloud 9 in Green Island

Imagine verdant mountain views overlooking clean aquamarine waters, open roads empty beside a rocky coral coast, just you  in a swim suit on a scooter free as a bird. On my facebook status update Iwrote upon my return, " Heaven on earth is pitching a tent beside a desolate coral cove, the crashing water amplified by surrounding cliff walls, next to a killer crackling fire." No one but me clicked the like button. A 3 day weekend in Green Island was beyond my expectations and I didn't even dive, which would in former times be the icing on the cake.

For my Green Island photo album click here.


It was fairly easy to get to from Tainan. All flights were well booked months in advance. Binh and I took an early 630am train to Taitung and arrived at 930am. A van was waiting for us and dropped us off to the ferry terminal for the notorious puke ferry to Nanliao. I gave motion sickness meds to Binh and Z and only Binh got sick. The end was a little rough with deep right to left swaying.

The train to Taitung cost 445NT and the return bus to Kaohsiung cost 443 for adult and 222NT for a kid (there were no train seats for the return trip). We got a package that included the ferry tickets both ways, scooter for all 3 days, the first night accommodation, breakfast and snorkeling for. So, here was the deal. Two days one night for adult is 2090NT and 1790 for kid. Three days two nights for adult is NT2990 and 2690 for kid. However, Dragon Boat Festival is a holiday weekend, it will add an $300 NT/person for this package. Thanks to Erica who took over communicating to Ula for us and buying us all the tickets which saved me and Binh a lunch break trip or 2 to the train station.

Here are the details of the package: Email Ula to make a reservation.  She speaks English. 東島 Travel agency ( www.eastisland.com.tw)
1. shuttle pick up from Taidong to Fugang Fisher Harbor (round trip)
2. boat tickets for 3 to Green island (round trip)
3. a hotel room for 3 (one night)
4. 2 scooters
5. 1 activity at the sea (3 choices, snorkeling, glass boat and salt water hot springs). We chose snorkeling and did the salt water hot springs on our own.
6. night tour with a tour guide (which we opted out of)
7. breakfast for 3
8. insurance for 3


The second night we camped outside the "ancient" ruins under a majestic cliff on a patch of beach clover steps from a romantic coral cove.The island's campsite was under construction and looked equally beautiful with wood platforms, trees and green overlooking the turquoise waters. The desolate rugged wildness was priceless. The night's stars were epic and we had a killer fire going.


Upon arrival to Nanliao we checked into our hotel which from the outside was less impressive and basically right on the ferry terminal. Inside our room was better, clean, AC, wood floors, etc. By then we were starving and pulled over to the first place that looked nice and had plenty of folk, but it was expensive and we spent 300NT each. Our blood sugar was low and our brains were not functioning, otherwise we would never have paid that much.


That first afternoon snorkeling was our schedules activity and after some exploring on our scooters post lunch, we were pretty beat and considering skipping the snorkeling for another day. We got the energy to suit up in wet suits and life vests (I have never snorkeled in a life vest before and they wouldn't let me go w/o one.) Z was adorable in her little wet suit and goggles. Her already big eyes were huge and it was comical, but I don't have any photos of that.


 Any other time, the collective Taiwanese tour group style of holiday would annoy the hell out of me and bring out my worst. But this time, I don't know if its Grace, progress or having a kid, but I was cool with it and just into watching Z and her first snorkel experience. About 25 tourists including us and 5 guides all left  as a swarm on our scooters to our reef site. We all sat in a huddle in a seaside puddle while the lead guide slowly explained in Mandarin how to put on goggles and use the snorkel. I swear a few years ago this would have agonized me to the point where I would rebelliously throw off my life vest and walk out alone to snorkel (I mean thats what we did every day on the Red Sea in Dahab under less than acute mental states of awareness.) I wasn't the least bothered and it all seemed to go well to the pace of a small 5 year old child. Z was pretty confident when we were going into the water. The whole reef was littered with other groups doing the same thing.


The water was choppy and walking out to the reef wasnt easy as if you werent careful you'd fall into deep holes. For the first few minutes we were all belly down and taking in the fish, but I was taking in Z taking in the fish. The lighting wasnt very impressive, there wasnt the colorful corals like Ive seen in underwater Edens like in Utila, but it wasnt dead like Ko Tao in Thailand. Our experience didnt last long, the waves got super big and some water went into her snorkel (I forgot to tell her how to clear it) and she panicked. A huge wave knocked us off our feer and smacked my mask off my face. There was no calming her, so she and I went back to a puddle that wasnt too deep and Binh stayed with the group to enjoy the fish (she said she saw 30 different kinds, but no turtles or rays). I tried to get to use her snorkel in the safety of our small natural, seaside pool, but she was done so we went back to the hotel and waited for Binh. That night was a postcard sunset and a well deserved beer.


The next day we drove around and looked for our campsite. I suggested the day before the ancient dwellings site and we drove down to check it out in detail. The stone abandoned houses were a little creepy, but walking further toward the cliff we found a green spot nestled between large bushes which acted like a wind breaker. We were concerned about the weather as the morning started with a shower. While we circumferenced the island we kept our eye open for other guest houses. The one I liked were those white cottages with a view, just outside Nanliao on the way to Dabaishe beach (http://www.sanasai.com.tw/). The clouds were speeding by so close to the ground, I didnt know if a front was coming or leaving.


After breakfast we headed to the Dabaisha beach, which was certainly white, not with soft sand, but small coral. The previous day's snorkeling scare hadnt dampened Z's enthusiasm for the water and surprisingly the sun and heat were not as brutal as it could of been. We returned for a cheap lunch, Z asleep in my arms in the restaurant. Around 4 we took our things from the hotel and set up our camp site. The wind was furious and it was difficult to set up the tent, I dont think I could of done it w/o Binh's help, in fact I know I couldnt. After the tent was secure we gathered a healthy heap of drift wood, ate our dinner and settled in for the night.

Sea shore hot springs

Where the hot springs meet the sea and I did some morning yoga

The plan was to wake up early and head to the hot springs for a shower and last minute de-stress before we headed back during lunch time to Taidong. My sleep wasnt good, Z kept on sliding down to our feet and it was hot. Binh accidentally broke the zipper on our net so we slept with the tent all zipped up. In the middle of the night I couldnt take the heat (neither could Z) and exposed us to the mosquitoes which had a field day. Anyway I woke at 5 and saw a local pass by the beach wearing a wet suit and holding a spear and wow I almost followed him. We broke camp around 7 and drove 6 km up the road to Chaojih Hot Springs.

The incomparable salt water hot springs, one of 3 in the world, was the supreme way to end the trip. The springs were found and developed by the Japanese under their occupation. The hours of the springs was from 5am-2am. The facilities had changing rooms, showers, pools with water massage and different temperatures, pools outside under the sun and pools indoors. All overlooking the coral coastline with rugged mountains as far as the eye could see. What was the climax was walking down to the shore itself, right into the sea were 3 heated pools and a platform with steps into the sea, reef fish swimming around us. Binh and Z frolicked together and I had enough moment to go through a first rate vinyasa flow right there, away from the people, in the sun beside this superlative setting. The hardness of sleeping on the ground, made my neck tight and after beating it with water spas and yoga, I was heaven bound.


Our return bus from Taidong to Kaohsiung didnt take as long as I expected, maybe because we slept most of the way. We took the fast train back to Tainan and returned around 530 where Erica picked us up. That night was the climax of the Dragon Boat festival and I was willing to take Z to see the last of the races, but she didnt want to go and frankly neither did I.




Package Details in Mandarin :東島 Travel agency (http://www.eastisland.com.tw/)
報價是以 2天1夜的，1位大人的費用是NT$2090元，12歲以下的小朋友的費用是NT$1790，
內容包含：
1.台東火車站—富岡來回接送 × 3位
2.台東—綠島來回船票 × 3位
3.東島渡假休閒中心住宿 3人房
4.125CC摩托車 × 2台
5.海上活動三選一：浮潛、玻璃船、朝日海底溫泉 × 3位
6.夜遊導覽，夜訪梅花鹿及夜間生態解說 × 3位
7.早餐 × 3客
8.旅遊保險(200萬旅責險+10萬醫療險) × 3位
在這邊要跟您說明一下：因端午節是屬假日，所以一人需加收300元的假日費


所以總金額是2090元× 2大人+ 1790×1小孩+假日費300×3人= 6870(未加值行程)


加值行程：(依個人需求，自行選擇是否要加選)
1.海底溫泉劵 NT$ 180元 (已選其中三選一的浮潛或是觀光船，然後晚上想再泡溫時適用)
2.晚餐BBQ NT$250／大人、 NT$200元／小孩
到綠島旅遊，只要帶著拖鞋和T恤，就可以來享受島嶼風情，
當然~防曬也要做好喔！帽子別忘了帶~^0^~
有任何問題想問，請別客氣，隨時和我聯繫唷！謝謝你~