About Me

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Yilan, Taiwan
I just returned back to the States after 11 years in Taiwan with my daughter. Taiwan is an excellent base for us explore Asia, while living in relative (gun free) safety, while benefiting from a cheap and efficient national health care system. The people are amazing too. I have Taiwanese friendships that are 20 years old and I'm always making new ones! My coworker here in CO is from Taiwan.

Monday, March 25, 2019

Women's Day Weekend Reunion on Dihua Street Street



The whole month of March is Women's History Month and International Women's Day was Friday, March 8th. That night, my daughter and I watched the award-winning Netflix documentary, "Period: End of Sentence".




The next day we went to Taipei for a much long overdue reunion with one of my oldest Taiwanese friends Alisse and her niece Angela. Alisse was dating my then-roommate 19 years ago when I was living in Tamsui. When I got pregnant in the UK 5 years later, she came out to visit me and support me in the early, turbulent months when I was in grad school and breaking up with my kid's father. It was wonderful to have an old friend for support. She's a deep lady, and also well traveled.




So, on Saturday after big hugs, we walked to the Ama Museum, which has been on my list since it recently opened. I did not want to miss their Anne Frank exhibit from Amsterdam, as it left last weekend. My daughter recently read her famous diary, so it was educational too. The exhibit really was thoughtful and Alisse and I were amazed by how mature Anne was for a 13-year-old, such acute observations of herself and the world. Anne Frank knew herself better than most adults do today.


After the museum, we were walking around looking for someplace to eat and sat at an open-air cafe behind the market. We ate a huge plate of Taiwanese appetizers, stewed tofus, intestine, hard-boiled eggs and a small boat of rice with a pork ball. Next was finding a tea house. I had wanted to check out some of the older, more popular ones, but we stumbled into pleasant enough one. 



We were all peckish after our lunch, as the rice bowl was small, so stopped at a gourmet Imagawayaki stand (known as wheel cakes 車輪餅 in Taiwan). Alisse and I took sweet potato, Angela took tarot. In the shop behind were crystals and jewelry in a historical building built in 1925, and originally a rice mill, with an inner plaza with a new teahouse, The Ivy Palace behind it.  The whole building is not only beautiful, but a functional shared arts space. The Ivy Palace was cofounded by a curry chef was mentioned recently in the Taipei Times.

 In the adjacent hall between the front shop and tea house was an art exhibit on the waste from fast fashion made from 2nd hand recycles, discarded shoes and jeans. The artist made masks attached to skateboards as well as puppets. I appreciated it.



We spent the rest of the rainy afternoon drinking tea, and laughing a lot. As we were walking back to the MRT, we passed a traditional medicine shop, and bought my daughter a treatment for growing taller. It would take the herbalist half an hour to make so we window shopped. I bought some goji berries and had to exercise self-control in not buying all the cool teas and nuts. Some of the shops tragically sold weird animal parts, like deer testicles, horns, sea-horses. The shop we bought my kid's herbs, didn't have anything that funkythankfully. It cost 1,200NT  for 3 large packets of herbs to make 3 large pots about 4 bowls of chicken soup each. We made one batch last week and will do another this weekend.


Resources:
Comfort Women Ama Museum (阿嬤家-和平與女性人權館) Daqiaotou Station
opens 10am, Dihua Street Daqiaotou Station (Orange Line), exit 1. Cross Minquan West Rd. and west four blocks to the north end of Dihua St. or Take MRT to MRT Shuanglian
Station(捷運雙連站). From exit number 2, walk west down Minsheng W. Road(民生西路)
15mins to reach

Some Tea Houses in the Dihua area on my list:

Xia Hai CChen ,
Wey Teahouse (臻味茶苑)
ASW Tea House.
City God Temple

Wednesday, March 13, 2019

Ending 2018 with a Splash: Return to XLC


It was very last minute, but for the four day New Years weekend, I thought we ought to go somewhere
and enjoy a change of scene. I wanted to stay in Taiwan and save funds for a Lunar New Year trip
(also last minute) later in January. I'm usually securing accommodation/travel details months in advance, so it was no surprise to me that train seats were all booked.



I decided on returning to XLC, "Little Okinawa" which is a small coral island off of Kaoshiung on the
opposite end of the island. The first and only time we went, my daughter was four. When I say "we"
I mean my friend, former coworker, also from Denver. She was my daughter's kindergarten teacher.
It was an opportunity to reconnect and make some new memories.



We took a bus from Yilan to Taipei, then a bus to Taichung, where we stayed the night at my friend's
house. Since our moving to Yilan, she has opened a successful buxibam in Taichung which was impressive.

The next day we took a train to Kaohsiung and then we took an hour taxi to Dongang harbor.
There are two ferry companies that I found and I bought our tickets online a week before.
Ferry to Dong Gang Online Booking  (08) 832-5806, (08) 833-8722 fax: (08) 833-2413   

As for hotels, the whole island was sold out. Having three adults worked out as we could get a "family room "(4 queen beds) but even then I had three places to chose from and chose the cheapest. The room was fine, the location was away from the harbor but in walking distance of places to eat. They had scooters waiting for us at the ferry dock.
Family Room Price


Explore XLQ island
We pretty much took two days to hit all of these in an anticlockwise order: Vase Rock, Beauty Cave.
Seaview Pavilion, Duozaiping, Sanfu Eco Park Trail, Gebanwan (beach), Black Dwarf Cave,
Sunset Galley, SE part of island: Mouse Rock, Lighthouses, NE: Lobster Cave, ChungAu Beach,
Middle of Island: Wetland Park,山豬溝 Shanzhuguo Forest Trail, Secret Beach


The Black Dwark Cave disappointing, We stood in line for over twenty minutes and crawling
through the tiny unimpressive cave took just a few moments. I think the obese Russain gentleman in
front of us got stuck and that's why it took him so long. There ought to be some warning sign as it is a
tight squeeze in some sections.


Turtle we saw whilesnorkeling
I was planning on going scuba diving, and was in contact with one of the diving shops but the weather
was cool and I was lazy and didn't want to be cold. We went snorkeling instead via my hostel's contact.
Snorkeling with a Taiwanese company is in itself an experience. Our guy yelled at me for swimming on
my own for a closer look at a friendly turtle, as we were required to hold onto a floaty.

We went snorkeling years before in Kenting with my Taiwanese friend (and my kid's swimming teacher)
and her daughter in Kenting, and of course it was very carefree and leisurely snorkeling. I guess its a
liability for the companies, but when we returned it took them less than my shower time to have burned
me a CD with photos.

Turtles in the shallow harbor
New Year's Eve, the only thing my daughter wanted to do was fish. The owner of a fishing gear shop, was of course out fishing, and when he finally returned, we went to the most southern harbor right before sunset.

To our surprise, there were 5 large turtles just hanging out in the shallow thigh-high water. It was tempting not to jump in with them there. Obviously, my kid didn't throw her line in those particular waters. Hooking a turtle, and a protected turtle would be a horrid way to end 2018.

My friend's partner is quite the fisherwoman herself, and helped my kid many times with her line, with no luck. However, it was more fun trying, as well as a quiet, relaxing medium to ring in the new year.




Resources:
Diving /Snorkeling

小琉球綠蠵龜潛水住宿 LiouCiou Green Sea Turtle Diving Camp; Hostels

Accommodation: Home Sweet Beach Hotel TWD 9,720 including breakfast vouchers for 2 nights