About Me

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Yilan, Taiwan
I just returned back to the States after 11 years in Taiwan with my daughter. Taiwan is an excellent base for us explore Asia, while living in relative (gun free) safety, while benefiting from a cheap and efficient national health care system. The people are amazing too. I have Taiwanese friendships that are 20 years old and I'm always making new ones! My coworker here in CO is from Taiwan.

Sunday, June 8, 2014

When Cultural Differences, The Law and Mother's Indignation Clash

I'm under the impression that regardless if a child is foreign or not, it is illegal to photograph or film minors without parental consent. Obviously this has been an ongoing experience with Z the past 6 years. We handle each situation individually, most of the time, locals are polite enough to ask, and Z is vocal enough to reply on her own, "No!" Sometimes I say, "They just think youre cute." There are also many times when they don't ask and she is big enough to say, "You didn't ask my permission to take my picture." When we first arrived and she was 2, I would have to tell them, "Sorry you didn't ask me." But what about if the person is a teacher or trusted adult, with the intention to film her and distribute that film, without my consent? And at the same time, me, her anchingban (daycare tutoring) and homeroom teacher arent aware of her whereabouts? Likewise, I am under the impression that if the parents or guardians do not know where their child is and that child is in the custody of another adult, without parental consent that is by definition, kidnapping. 
Ya so the Friday before Dragon Boat weekend I had this "incident" with Z that is not going away quietly because those involved refuse to conclude the matter appropriately. Of course in many ways this is a cultural misunderstanding, the school, a teacher seem to think they are above common sense or the law.
I received a sorry text over our holiday weekend, from the teacher but haven't heard anything from the principal. So I emailed the principal this letter June 5, Thursday morning (Thanks to my friend Doreen for the translation). I dropped off the letters after work and Principal #2 was all apologies and sympathetically said he "understands" and we need to make a meeting. But why I have to hunt them down and make them aware of the situation is baffling. The teacher responsible, should of told her superiors that Friday afternoon, I should of received an official apology the following Monday, or Tuesday, or Wednesday or Thursday...

Dear School Principals:
I just want to make an official statement regarding last Friday’s (May 30th) incident. Even today, my daughter is easily upset, anxious, nervous and worried over what occurred and how it was mishandled. Despite my reassurances, she still seems to believe it was her fault. I feel like so many lines were crossed, I don’t even know where to begin my list of grievances. 我只是想就上週五的事件做一個正式的聲明。即使到今天,我的女兒仍然難過,焦慮和緊張,擔心這個事件的處理方法不對。儘管我一再的保證,她似乎仍然認為這是她的錯。我覺得整件事太超過了,甚至讓我不知道從哪裡開始陳述我的不滿。
On Friday, I received a phone call from the owner of my daughter’s anchingban asking if my daughter was with me. “No she’s supposed to be with you,” I replied. We were both extremely terrified that something was wrong, Zenaida was missing. We both met at the school, the security guard was useless, it took me over five minutes to find an adult in the main office. 上週五,我接到一個從我女兒的安親班打來的電話,問我是否我的女兒和我在一起。“沒有,她應該是在你們那裡的。”我回答說。我們雙方都非常驚懼,不知道出了什麼差錯,我女兒失踪了。我和安親班的人到學校碰面,警衛沒法幫我們,我花了超過五分鐘,才在辦公室找到一個成人。
Fortunately, my daughter was safe and just about to film something for her Taiwanese class. I was extremely upset. I told all the adults present, that they were extremely irresponsible for not letting me or anchingban know where she was. The Taiwanese teacher seemed to think all of this was perfectly normal, she was going to “drive her to anchingban” after filming. For 10 minutes I was utterly terrified. No parent should have to experience the depth of worry and misery that I went through. This is inexcusable, unprofessional, irresponsible and unsafe!
還好我的女兒是安全的,當時正為她的台語課拍攝影片。我非常不高興,我告訴所有在場的成人,不讓我或安親班知道我的女兒在哪裡,是極不負責任的事情。台語課老師似乎認為這一切是完全正常的,因為她表示在拍攝完後會開車送我女兒到安親班”。 在尋找我女兒的時間裡,我是完全嚇壞了。這是不可原諒,不專業,不負責任及不安全的!我覺得不應該再有家長像我一樣,經歷這樣的擔憂和驚惶。
So here is a list of what was wrong with Friday: 在星期五這個事件出錯的幾點如下:
1. A group of adults associated with your school, including the teacher were going to film minors without parental consent. I had no idea, nor did I give my permission. Who are these people? What is their company? What is the mission and purpose of filming my daughter and what rights do I have over the distribution of her image? This is illegal in Taiwan.
跟學校有關的人員,包括老師,竟然未經父母同意就拍攝未成年的孩子。我不知道這件事,也沒有給過我的許可。他們是誰?他們是什麼公司嗎?拍攝我的女兒有什麼任務和目的?關於她的影像散播,我能有什麼權力控制?在台灣這是非法的。
2. When I found my daughter, her Taiwanese teacher seems to nonchalantly brush off the incident as my daughter’s fault for not telling me. This is extremely upsetting to my daughter who seems to be feeling more personally responsible than the teacher and that’s wrong. Blaming my daughter only added to her burden and anxiety, even now. 當我發現我的女兒,她的台語課老師似乎漫不經心地推諉這個事件為我女兒的錯,因為她沒有告訴我。這樣非常讓我的女兒難過,讓她以為自己比老師更應該負責,這是錯的。指責我的女兒只是加給她負擔和焦慮,甚至一直到現在。
3. Taiwanese teacher was planning on driving my daughter to anchingban. In what world is this acceptable? I don’t know this woman. She has no permission to drive my daughter anywhere. If there were a car accident and my daughter was hurt, she would be liable. 台語課老師打算開車載我的女兒去安親班。這是可以接受的嗎?我不認識這個女老師,她沒有權限載我的女兒到任何地方。如果發生車禍,我的女兒出事了,她要負責的。
4. The security guard had no idea there was a group filming inside the school. I realize it’s a big school with many students, but I have higher expectations that he would be more aware. Are the security guard's trained for emergency situations like a kidnapping? 警衛根本不知道有一個攝製小組在學校裡面。我了解到這是一所有很多學生的大學校,但我希望警衛能更清楚學校的一切。警衛是否有受訓練去處理警急狀況,比如像如果發生綁架要如何應付?
5. Why was my daughter even picked to be filmed for her Taiwanese class? I believe she has a natural talent for languages, but her Taiwanese certainly is not fluent, or good and there are children in her class with better Taiwanese. The children picked to be filmed should be based on merit, not how attractive or cute they are in front of the camera. This is teaching children the wrong message, that physical attractiveness and not merit is more successful. She told me didn’t want to be filmed, that Taiwanese teacher pressured her. I feel like Taiwanese teacher exploited her as a foreign kid who can repeat her Taiwanese lines. This is unethical and exploitive. 為什麼我的女兒被挑選來甚至拍影片,我相信她有語言天賦,但她的台語肯定是不夠流暢,在班上一定有能說更好台語的孩子。孩子們被挑選來拍攝,應根據其成績優點,而不是是在鏡頭前他們是如何可愛和吸引人。這是教孩子錯誤的訊──即外表吸引力是比較容易達到成功的。她告訴我不想被拍攝,但台語課老師給她壓力。我覺得台語課老師利用她,作為外國孩子可以重述老師的台語,這樣的事是不道德和剝削的。
I feel like there should be more of a concrete compensation for me and my daughter’s distress and duress and an apology is not adequate enough at this point. 對我和我女兒的痛苦和脅迫, 我覺得應該有更多具體的補償。在這一點上,只是道歉是不夠的。
Kindest regards,
KB

Most all of my friends whether they are Taiwanese or foreign have been extremely understanding and supportive. My Taiwanese coworkers certainly are, as they can relate both as a teacher and mother.

Of course I got immediate support from foreigners having lived here forever with kids: One wrote:
"Good for you. WAYYY back when we just arrived here we had a VERY similar thing. One afternoon as we were about to leave school (we both worked at the same school that our kids went to) the principal came in BEAMING to tell us that "Today, X went to the professional photographer's studio to have photos taken for the school's advertising!" She clearly expected us to be absolutely THRILLED about how famous our child was now going to be, and was COMPLETELY nonplussed at our reaction, which followed very similar lines to the above re: Who drove him, who gave permission for him to be taken off-campus, who is the photographer, who supervised that photoshoot, and who gave permissions for my child's image to be used for the school's advertising? She was just completely baffled - and frankly, hurt."

Another wrote:
Writing the letter and giving the school a step by step breakdown of your view point is crucial. The importance is that no matter how dangerous or wrong the situation was, they obviously didn't feel the same way. The same could be pointed out for driving a scooter the wrong way, at night, in the rain, without headlights, without a helmet, and carrying multiple kids. It is wrong, and it aches to the very core of my being in its wrongness, BUT that wrongness isn't shared universally, unfortunately. Vent to us, rant and show your friends the anger and disappointment, but understand that no matter how wrong and grievous the school's actions, they may not understand or deal well with your anger. A list of things that you provided to them is helpful in the future, IF there are other foreign kids, but it would seem unlikely that a policy change would occur. At the very least, you can blog and warn other foreigner parents of the likelihood of something like this happening to their kids.

One friend who has been here for 15 years with a son warned me I wouldn't get much of anything but an apology, which is fine, but I at least, the very least I want them to understand the gravity of the situation. For this to be seen as dangerous for any child.

 What was hurtful was the message I got from my  friend who also has been in Tainan for 10 years (without children). He wrote:
Concerning the drama with X school. I don't want to interfere with your personal life. I will just explain to u a bit about Taiwanese society. FB is not private. No matter what u think the friend settings are. Recently a few people have been taken to court, bc of FB posts. This is becoming a "thing" in taiwan. A bunch of foreigners screaming and forming a lynch-mob will not help your cause. Be careful with Taiwanese. That Taiwanese comment on FB is a warning if u read between the lines. People calling Taiwanese clueless and lacking common sense is considered a racial slur and can cause a shitload of trouble. In the end, only Z will suffer. These foreigners chiming in and screaming kidnapping really know nothing about this culture, don't get swept away with the mob mentality. Step back, think and make a decision to resolve this in private, to protect Z. Friendly advice only. Not taking sides. But this thing has the potential to cause a lot of trouble if too many people get involved. 

 I told him that what he said, "Wasn't particularly helpful, kind, or accurate to say the least." To me this isn't about race as much as its about individual responsibility. He came back with;
 "I don't join mobs. I'm a lateral thinker. The big picture says, you'll get a halfhearted apology, nothing more. Was trying to help u..All I said was: resolve it in privateExcuse me for saying: follow reason, not anger. The Christian u r and all. "

 His message wasn't helpful or kind because it wasn't accurate. It was based on assuming I had not waited for a quiet resolution, which I did, I waited almost a week for some kind of official response, and just got 2 texts from the teacher over the holiday weekend of an apology AND if my daughter can still resume filming (obviously she doesn't get IT). I am aware of foreigners here in Anping (and their children) being targeted and harassed because of FB posts, (with local police and embassies involved) and I still don't see the danger in covering the asses of the teacher or school, especially when her immediate response was to blame my daughter. The cheap shot at my faith was disappointing. Who ever said being a Christian equals some friggin religious or moral law not to get angry!? There isn't. Jesus got plenty angry at the exploiters, (money changers scene case in point). Jesus referred to the political/religious elites as "vipers".

At the same time, my friend, also an expat with children made the point:
Choosing friends based on who is willing to agree with you only provides comfort and supports your status quo in life. The courageous friends will tell you like it is and challenge your beliefs and views, and will be the ones who truly encourage you to break out of your limiting views.

Which I agree, but if thats true, then its a reciprocal, two way street give and take. I think telling me to be "quiet" because I am this "irrational, angry woman" is just mindlessly echoing the mob of both culture's collective consciousness: Irrational, angry women are dangerous, uncomfortable, unfeminine, etc. I'm the one who has to be culturally respectful of the teacher losing face, eventho I'm in the right.

The truth is my anger isn't anger as much indignation, and it obviously makes him and perhaps others uncomfortable, and judgemental. I definitely see conflict resolution as a cultural difference for sure, he wants me to "stop being angry and move one" and I want the teacher penalized and safeguards put in place so this may not happen to any other child regardless if they are Taiwanese or foreign.

Besides this one friend I did get 2 responses (minority feedback) from the community that this teacher is "passionate", has "won awards for Taiwanese", which fell on deaf ears the moment I received that call and was told, by the anchingban, "No no one knows where your daughter is, she wasn't at school. She's missing." My need for restitution was cemented the moment this star teacher blamed my crying kid to our faces, that she forgot to tell me (and homeroom teacher and anchingban) even tho she didn't let my kid know the filming time until the last minute, nor let any of us adults know for that matter.

If I don't get the appropriate response, I am seriously thinking of hiring an attorney and pressing formal charges. If taking this to court is the only way to make those in charge understand the gravity of what transpired, so be it. Perhaps a court ruling can make a clear statement that this isn't about race or cultural differences, but breaking the law and child safety issues. Obviously I hope it doesn't have to come to that. I'm drafting a plan the school can implement to improve child safety, so the school can be a shining example in the community of child safety as well as cultural sensitivity to foreign kids (they are not the adhoc school advertisement, mascot). I hope local law enforcement and PTA can get involved and there be a school assembly to teach the teachers, parents as well as students. 

Its a shame that it did not have to turn out this way. My child could of happily participated in an educational film, if she wanted to by her choice (she said this teacher pressured her) and if I was asked for my consent and if all the guardians at least knew where she was and what time it would all be over, this could of been a completely different scenario.

So now I'm waiting for this meeting and until then I'm giving the school principals the benefit of the doubt that they will do the right thing.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Burmese New Year of the Horse Holy Daze Pt 1: Stuck in Singapore

South Bridge Road, China Town, Singapore
Its been a while since I posted. I was crazy busy with Christmas, teaching, wrapping up the semester and then Chinese New Year holiday was upon me. I had to pinch and save every penny since October 2013 to buy 2 tickets to Yangon via Singapore. If I was backpacking and had more time, I would of got our visas for Myanmar in Singapore for a much cheaper price (30USD) than doing it via an online service (100 USD each), but for convenience's sake. I didn't want to take my chances with a kid and pre- booked flights. This year my CNY holiday break was 3 days longer than my usual 2 weeks and I intended to capitalize on every moment.

Our arrival at Boat Quay.
We flew into Singapore and stayed in Boat Quay. We checked in around 930pm after leaving Tainan that morning. Around the corner and away from the riverfront, overpriced restaurants, was a more modest row of street noodles. The locals got a kick out of her ordering our handmade fishball noodles in impeccable Mandarin. I had a cold, refreshing, long deserved Tiger beer that I was too tired to finish. Eventually we made it to bed at midnight- my daughter meltdown free.

Breakfast overlooking the river, Boat Quay. The upstairs gallery at our guesthouse.
Our modern guesthouse was little more than a windowless, closet sandwiched between overpriced seafood restaurants along the river bank,but for a night it was ok. I didn't get any sleep of course, I could hear the BEEPing of neighbors' electronic doors. Needless to say I was dazed and confused the next morning.

Boat Quay
I usually stay in Little India, but wanted to try some new part of Singapore. (Here are photos of our July 2011 trip and our Jan/Feb 2014 Singapore album)

Don't mess with Tiger Mom! Boat Quay
I missed our flight to Yangon the next day, I was confused on times. I was about to check in when my gate closed and my plane was taking off. Needless to say I was gutted. I had to pay for another pair of tickets and I had budgeted my trip down to the last kyat, this was definitely not in my budget. The tears were welling up as I stood in line for new tickets. My cell phone was dead, my laptop wasn't connecting to airport wifi, I couldnt contact my only friend Rogenie in Singapore. I just had to wait it out, bite the bullet of my own carelessness and make the most of it. Z was not pleased with me.

I was besides myself on the inside. There was fear of not having enough $ for the rest of our trip, fear our visas would be rejected because the info on the paperwork was now a different date and flight. It was stress time for me, I was thirsty, had to pee, pushing Z and our luggage around the airport (she cant physically walk in airports. Her feet refuse to function as she prefers I push her on the luggage trolley that clearly states kids mustn't ride on them. I don't mind as its faster anyways, and sometimes we have a bit of fun, 360's). So we're running around Changi, here for wifi password, there for charging my laptop, mostly we were parked at the help desk in the other terminal (Michael wherever you are in Changi, you're a really sympathetic, helpful, competent dude). I had to find the free computers at McD's before I finally felt I couldn't wait any longer to go urinate. Basically I ended up with a self induced kidney infection a few days later as a consequence from my imploding stress fest . I thought I knew Changi Airport pretty well from previous transit flights, but ya, I basically was on a first name basis with staff by the end of the day. (Seriously Michael at Changi Help Desk, you were a Guardian Angel, I hope you get a raise and employee of the year.)  He used his own personal phone to call the Visa dude in Yangon, my Hotel in Yangon, Rogenie in Singapore while charging my phone with his own personal portable charger and had one of his female assistants escort Z to the bathroom while I chatted with Yangon on his phone.

View from our Guesthouse across the river, Boat Quay.
Of course it turned out alright. I had to use my emergency credit card for a nice 3 star hotel in Lavender mrt, somehow Rogenie and I missed each other there. Our hotel was nice though, with a pool, weight room. We took the cheapest, noisiest, room by the elevators. The man at check in must of pitied me and my situation because he gave us free breakfast tickets which cost 25$ Sing each. It was a pretty decent buffet. I was grateful.


On those 2 days, I went to some sites I hadn't made it to before. We went to the oldest Hindu temple. Sri Mariamman, a Dravidian style temple in Chinatown. then and a few small parks where Z could just be a kid and run barefoot on the green grass (while unknown to me we missed our check-in for the flight to Yangon).



Thursday, November 28, 2013

Grateful to Live in Tainan: Top 15 Reasons


Its that time of year, to cultivate gratitude and remind ourselves to be thankful everyday. While friends and family are stuffing their face with organic turkeys, pumpkin pies on gluten free crust, washed down with local micro brews, I will be going to work like it was any other day. Evenso, I am counting my blessings-literally and in no particular order.



1. The People- Also a source of anxiety at times, but that is just part of living with imperfect people in a different culture. For the most part, the people here are very friendly, willing to help. Its very easy to make friends in Tainan, and friends that last.

Ive also come to appreciate the expat crowd. Undoubtedly we all might never hang out with each other if we lived in the same town back home, but here in Tainan we do, so its an interesting cast of characters. In my neighborhood, within a 5 minute radius there are a handful of guys, friendly neighbors that have helped me out in a pinch. Despite Tainan being a small city there is a pretty international crowd, loads of S. Africans, Japanese, Latin Americans, to name a few.

2. Health care- As an American I cant tell you how thankful I am to have cheap, affordable health care. Dental, reproductive health are all cheap and good. There are no political hang ups about how national health care is paid, everyone agrees that as part of the social contract of having a high standard of living is paying a very small tax each month. Every month I get 2000NT (67 USD) taken out of my paycheck for me and my daughter. I dont mind. If we need to see the Dr or Dentist, its a 150 NT ($5 US), including meds.

3. Relative Safety- Personal guns aren't legal so unless I'm hanging out with gangsters I can pretty much count on going to a movie theater or school without threat of a psycho with a gun on the warpath.

4. Base to explore Asia- My daughter and I have vacationed in Malaysia 4 times (twice to the peninsula and twice to Borneo, Sabah and Sarawak), as well as Sumatra, Tokyo, Singapore and Hong Kong. When I lived in Taipei before she was born, I was able to to travel to Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, and the Philippines. There are some great low carrier Airlines like Scoot, Peach, Air Asia and Tiger that make it affordable. This Chinese New Years we are going to Myanmar.

5.Sea, Mountains and Islands- I live literally 1 minute from the beach and port. I am blessed.Ok in Anping you have to travel a bit to get into the mountains, but Taiwan is pretty loaded with nice mountains thats an easy trip from Tainan. We have been to Alishan twice, Sun Moon Lake, Nantou 4 times, Guanshan covered in Daylilies, and of course Taroko.  I went river tracing last year for the first time and hope I can do it again. Now that my daughter is older, I want to start to do some more serious trekking.

As for islands, even that is pretty easy to get to from Tainan. There is Green Island (went there twice), Matsu, Xiao Liou Qiou and the Penghu archipelago. Orchid island is next on my list. In terms of coastal scenery nothing beats the East Coast. Taitung has it all, mountains and sea, indigenous culture and outdoor sports. Its just a 4 hour train ride away.

6. Exotic fruit All Year Long- It seems like every month a new fruit is coming into season; dragon fruit, local pineapple, sugar cane, guava, waxed apple, asian pear, lychee, avocados, papaya, plums, pomelo, mango, it never stops. I live for my fruit shake breakfasts.


7. Cheap Living Expenses- In comparison to the States rent, bills, fruit, clothes are cheaper. For a 3 bed 1 bath, super small kitchen, I pay 7500 NT ($253US). I can still get a decent bottle of wine for 8-10 bucks US. A 80 minute full body, traditional Chinese massage is 800NT (27 US), a 2 hour facial is about 30 bucks US.

8. Mild Winters- Having grown up in Colorado, which yes is beautiful and yes so is the snow, but after a few months of scraping the ice off the windows, waiting 10 minutes to warm up the car, yes I appreciate the relatively warm winters. Plus its drier here than Taipei so we don't really deal with year round rain like they do in the north, except for a few typhoons here and there.

9. My child is fluent in Mandarin- Its a changing, global world and China is a major player. Chinese business, Chinese people are everywhere and Mandarin is and will be an important language.

10. Don't need a car- This is probably truer in Taipei with better public transportation than Tainan, but for getting around Anping, a scooter is just fine.  I do get around Taiwan, using trains, planes and ferries, but if I could afford it I would have a car, if only because I grew up doing road trips. I covet the freedom to just take off and explore a new part of the island for a weekend. Still I see it as a luxury rather than necessity.

11. Hot Springs galore - The closest hot spring to Tainan is Guanzhiling, but I've also been fortunate to have been to 2 in Nantou, the rare salt water hot spring on Green Island, a handful in Taipei's Beitou/Yangminshan, some on the East Rift Valley, Hongye Hot springs (twice), Rueshuei and Antong. Then there was that nice hot springs on our way back from Kenting,

12. Fascinating Indigenous Tribes- Its not really something that comes to mind when you think Tainan, but I live 1 minute away from an Indigenous Park across from Anping port, which frequently on the weekends gets buses of different dancers and musicians from various tribes sharing their culture with each other. Z likes to eat some wild boar BBQ and I'll sip a little millet wine and enjoy looking at the different traditional costumes and interesting faces.



13. Cheap TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine)- Because of the cheap national health care system, I can pay 150NT to see the TCM Dr who at his recommendation might prescribe TCM herbs, acupuncture, cupping or scraping or whatever I needed. I also have learned a lot from friends about how and what to cook according to the weather and Chinese cosmology.

14. Less typhoon disasters and earthquakes- In comparison to Taipei or the East coast, Tainan is known for its safer position from tropical western moving storms and rarer earthquakes. The locals attribute this to Tainan's supposedly higher number of temples and temple activities.

15. Parks- In a 5 mile radius there are several nice parks with trails along rivers, trees with flower blossoms, bamboo, playgrounds to keep my kid busy, while I'll do some yoga or hang up the TRX straps. There are a plethora of baseball diamonds, basketball and tennis courts. Every morning the locals are practicing variations of Tai Chi alone, or in groups, with swords or fans, or practicing Chi Gong. I always feel lucky after spending sometime in the park, I'm fortunate to live so close to them.



Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Mad about Matsu








I recently read an article in the Features section of the Taipei Times about Taiwanese American Lin Wei-Kou and his experience filming "100 Days"  on Matsu. ("Hollywood to Matsu") I began to reminisce my April and thought I'd post a blog before 2013 becomes over.

My longtime friend and language exchange buddy Vicky (鄭鼎宸) and I, had planned on going to Matsu a year before and our schedules just couldn't flow together until April of 2013. We had a 3 day weekend or I took a day off, I can't remember. I had suggested we go to Matsu because neither of us hadn't been there before and Vicky is always up for an adventure. Our families and mutual friends had gone up to Alishan together and other various BBQ get-togethers before. Vicky and I used to meet every Sat afternoon at McD's so our kids could play in the indoor playground and we could do our "language exchange" (basically both of us mutually making fools of ourselves and having fun doing it.) She opened 2 successful guesthouses (The Flower House) in the beginning of summer this year and our Sat exchanges weened out to zilch. I know she is super busy, but I miss her!. ( If you ever need a new, modern decorated, cheap place to stay from visiting friends or family, they have a location in Anping across from Shi-men Elementary school and one by the train station.




Matsu  (馬祖列島 Mǎzǔ Lièdǎo) is made of 18 islands divided into townships. I counted almost all of them from my cropduster window. Our departures from Tainan high speed station was rife with strange energy. The train before ours had stopped because of a bomb, which rarely if ever happens here. Of course we didn't  find out until lunch later in Beigan, eating local handmade fishball noodles, the freshest I've ever tasted. (See 600 Evacuated from Taiwan Trains...)



We arrived Friday afternoon at Beigan 北竿, and spent the night in the stone village in Cinbe Cun across from Turtle Beach and Turtle island. Fujian, Mainland China out in the near distance called out like a casual, impulsive invitation  How strange to be closer to China than Taiwan. I could see the fishing villages and windmills.




Our accommodation was rustic, stone and wood, just perfect, with all the windows and doors overlooking a small beached bay and near little Turtle Island, The night was cool, we were bundled up, the big airy bathroom was freezing just for a piping hot bath. Wine mixed with the sound of breaking waves, lulled me to sleep, cozy in the cold.




At 芹壁村25號「Chinbe No. 25 Guesthouse」. 全海景宅所/全海景套房 (Panoramic Sea View Villa/Suites)  半海景多人雅房/半海景套房   (Partial Sea View Rooms/Suites)
Room rates include traditional Matsu breakfast. 住宿費用包含早餐 Online Reservation 



We toured Beigan on rented scooters on Saturday The island was dotted with pristine, empty beaches, innocent from any evidence of human footprints, except mine. There were tiny villages here and there, mosly old people and young soldiers, the old people living as time hadn't stopped. They were all fishermen, drying seaweed and tiny fish out in the day sun, drying themselves off from early nocturnal catches.




We parked our scooters and checked out a few trails. The most remarkable started from some Soldiers memorial museum (the Iron Fort) where they had displays on Comfort Ladies, bombs, stories of armed Chinese scuba spies (water ghosts Chinese People's Liberation Army frogmen infiltrators) that swam to Matsu's shores and occasionally killed locals. The trail went away from the island towards the sea and was a dangerous one person dirt trail that went occasional along the edge of a precipice (Suicide Cliff). One slip and it was certain death, which I suppose was crazy stupid since we had kids, but for some reason it seemed safe and doable they have been avid hikers/backpackers for years, and well same here. We moved slow and cautiously when needed, there was rope nailed into some of the rocks to help out. Mostly the trail went down the spine of this island's reaching arm, surrounded by some tropical kind of heather, island scrub, thistle flowers everywhere courted by darting lizards. We all certainly felt lucky to be there in fine weather enjoying the finer views in all directions, enjoying a clean perspiration that quickly cooled in the aquamarine breezes.





Saturday late afternoon we took a 20 minute boat to Nangan 南竿, the bigger island. We stayed in another picturesque coastal town with stone Fujian style homes in Jinsha, Village, Nangan.  This time instead of stone we stayed in a wood guesthouse and it seemed even colder. 

Saturday night minsu
After we arrived we quickly hopped on our scooters and started our exploration. It was definitely bigger, more villages. The biggest city had a famous distillery of which we had a few samples. The local dishes were flavored with locally made fermented  red rice yeast, that was added to the  rice. We ate a lot of seafood of course. There was a massive Matsu statue, a well placed garden cafe and lots of military things we stopped to see, Vicky's husband had done his military service here and we saw the museum he helped built (Folk Cultural Artifacts Exhibition Hall).

Tunnel 88 brand kaoliang (38 and 58 proof) sorghum liquor, as well as aged laojiou rice wine (around 30% alcohol). 

Would I go back? Of course! If only because the plan of developing the island is spoiling it into some second rate gambling wanna-be Macau.

Click here for all my Matsu photos.






Friday, October 18, 2013

Chiro to the Stars: Managing Back Pain in Anping

Dr. Mark Signore checking my daughter


I was asked by three people this week about making an appointment with my chiropractor, so I thought I'd just write a post.

Call it an occupational hazard or byproduct of  modern living, but my back is messed! Bending over to help little bodies and picking them up, bad posture from the computer whatever, my back pain predates Tainan. I thought I did something having a major car accident at age 16 (we totalled my friend's car, the guard rail was singed into the motor). Or when I was a PTA in a nursing home, we were understaffed and had to lift heavy, often combative old people on a daily basis. So I've noticed the past 8 years or so whenever I get stressed out (bad sleep, argument, driving too much, etc) the left lower muscles seize up and gets rock hard. I always thought since my back was so strong and flexible it would in moments like this pull itself out of alignment.

In the summer of 2012, the expats of Tainan had our Beach Olympics. I didnt actually participate in the competitions but I did get a little too rowdy and fell hard and basically twisted my pelvis out  of alignment. My recovery has been a slow process. More like 1 step forward, 3 steps back ever since. The flexibility in my left leg still isnt the same as it used to be, I suffered from piriformis syndrome until I found Dr. Mark and even after being adjusted, have continual sciatic and shoulder pain that comes and goes in intensity (I'm sure standing all day doesn't help.)

Boy was I shocked when I saw my x-rays and did it all suddenly make sense.


My lower back is S curved and where it torcs is where my muscle often "seizes" up. Also one hip bone is smaller than the other and thus one leg is slightly shorter. This means my musculoskeletal has to seriously overcompensate so my head sits up on  my shoulders.


My back care regime is basically practicing yoga several times a week, weight lifting as heavy as I can in moderation and 2 full body massages a month. Before last year I also would go to the local physiotherapy clinic for some electrical therapy cupping and infrared lamps. It costs only 50NT ($1.70 USD) each time. I dont go there anymore because I just don't have the time,  I seriously need to rethink my current schedule. Its mostly just old people in there, the woman therapist speaks English. The clinic is across from the Fire station on Yonghua and Yuping Road, on the 2nd floor. Its nice to go there with my headphones and chill out for 30 minutes.


My Massage:Hurts So Good

The massage couple I go to are amazing. It costs 800NT ($27 USD) for 80-90 minutes for a full body traditional Chinese (deep tissue/meridian/tuī ná 推拿) massage. I have been seeing them religiously for 5 years. It's not your soothing, soft, Swedish style massage. I brought several expat friends there who only went once and never returned. Its excruciating--in a good way, if you like that sort of pleasure/pain--which I do. I'm muttering coarse words, and then drooling on the floor, eyes rolling in the back of my head, purring like a cat. After so many times, the woman (whom I prefer) knows exactly what I need, where I need it; her hands are a symphony of knuckles, elbows, oil, pounding and finger tips. Often a session includes a round of cupping (拔罐).The massage is good for stress release and also because I do regular weight bearing exercises. The cupping is good for circulation, blood and lymphatic health.

There were several times,when they were pressed for time and they both worked on me at the same time. Magical. I couldn't tell my legs from my arms, its a seriously mind altering experience. They also do foot/leg massages for 400NT, takes about an hour and is definitely not my cup of tea. After about a 5 minute foot soak in boiling mugwort water, all the sensitive areas on your legs and foot are prodded and poked and smacked. I was alternating between crying and laughing from being tickled. 

To get there from Tainan City go west on Mincyuan towards Anping. When you passed the light/intersection at Huaping, its your 2nd U-turn, flip one and park it. (439 Mincyuan Road Sec 4). Its the building on the end beside a side alley (Anping lane 406) that goes to Anping Road. They dont speak any English and its recommended you call first and make an appointment. Their hours are 9 am-9:30pm. 2269227 or 0931878923.


TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine)
My TCM Dr thats in my neighborhood (Yonghua and Huaping) suggested I see his friend (also in my neighborhood) Dr.Su.The good Dr didn't adjust me the way Id hoped, or he didn't adjust me at all. With very little examination except reading my pulses (that might be all he needed), he threw acupuncture needles like darts into my shoulder, and hooked them up to a machine that sent excruciating electrical impulses. It seemed to work. When it was time for my left hip and sciatic, it was just too painful, I could barely stand it. 



After this treatment I had to sit and get my lower left back steamed with mugwort steam. I did this about 3 times, but it was just too excruciating  His office is on Yonghua in Anping between Yuping and Jiankang 3rrd Street, go passed the light where Xiao Bei Store is and its next to Toto's Hair Salon, on the 2nd floor. 






American Chiropractor in Anping


Nancy, Mark's wife with Alex


My buddy from San Diego was playing tennis and met Dr. Mark. I saw him 6 months after he and his wife moved from LA to Tainan to care for her sick mother. He has a sweet set up, state of the art scanners and tables. The first consultation is free and he will not adjust you without proper xrays. 



Although he is certified to x-ray (he had xrays in his office in LA), by Taiwanese law a clinic may not and also the Taiwanese medical system doesn't recognize chiropractic medicine as a legitimate medical science. Which is weird because tuī ná 推拿 could also include manual adjustments


Xray tech at home in his underwear


I went with my yoga buddy Aleks for our free consultation and xrays. He sent us to Beiman Rd near the train station. I guess this x-ray tech will take the xrays according to Dr. Mark's detailed requests. The xrays have to be standing at certain angles to see how gravity affects the alignment.

After the xrays, Aleks and I quickly returned for our adjustments. After that first visit every visit is 700NT and for me takes about 45 minutes to an hour, for Aleks less. He also adjusted my daughter for free. 

Dr Mark Signore's philosophy is that he shouldn't adjust a patient more than once or 3 times, it should not be a chronic therapy. He is such a holistic Dr and has helped heal people over so many years he came to his own conclusions in terms of diet and nutrition, unresolved emotional issues, mind/body connection and even delving into the spirit world. Just don't call him "New Age'  as he is a practicing conservative Catholic. He is very thorough and published his observations in a book.I cant tell you how refreshing it was to speak with someone who not only speaks English but is so professional.

 Natural Health Restoration Centre Dr Mark Signore: Spinal care consultation, spinal subluxation correction, energetic balancing 098-1111-675  06263-1515, 1-16, Xinle Road, South District, Tainan City 702. To get to his office from Tainan City go west on Jiankang Rd Sec 2, towards the beach. Passed the light where Giant bike store and Poya's  (Jiankang + Zhonghua W Rd) its the next light on your left. You'll see big, expensive, empty looking buildings, its there with the green sign.



Saturday October 19 at 4-8 pm Natural Health Restoration Centre will have free spinal consultation and check ups. At the United Love Garden (Rui Fu and Dadong night market square ). There will be  more than 100 stalls, including Dr. Mark's. All charity and food revenue will be donated to this charity. Natural Health Restoration Centre pitch will be in area B. 10月19日星期六下午4點到8點大東夜市廣場瑞復&美善聯合愛心園遊會。共一百多個攤位。所有義賣&美食收入全捐獻給此慈善机構。自然健康整復中心攤位在B區,免費脊椎諮詢和脊椎錯位檢查。歡迎大家告訴大家,前往支持此愛心活動。

"If you have become so habituated into the conventional belief mode that you think it’s normal for everyone to get cancer, then maybe for you it’s already too late. However, if you understand that your body was made to last for 120 years, you are still in the game. The human body was not designed so that the thyroid gland should become dysfunctional at 50 years of age, the heart seize at 60, and the liver become cancerous at age 70.  As mentioned previously, car parts are designed to fail after a prescribed time. But in nature’s biological assembly line, the parts are supposed to wear out together. If the systems of your body are breaking down prematurely, you have two choices; try to live with it, or change it. To change it (beyond just covering up the symptoms) will require a thorough and objective evaluation of your beliefs. Why? Because so far, your beliefs as to why you are sick and what’s needed to get well have obviously not worked. If they had, you would already be better." 
(from Dr, Mark Signore's book Heaven and Health.)