Ending 2018 with a Splash: Return to XLC

It was very last minute, but for the four day New Years weekend, I thought we ought to go somewhere
and enjoy a change of scene. I wanted to stay in Taiwan and save funds for a Lunar New Year trip
(also last minute) later in January. I'm usually securing accommodation/travel details months in advance, so it was no surprise to me that train seats were all booked.

I decided on returning to XLC, "Little Okinawa" which is a small coral island off of Kaoshiung on the
opposite end of the island. The first and only time we went, my daughter was four. When I say "we"
I mean my friend, former coworker, also from Denver. She was my daughter's kindergarten teacher.
It was an opportunity to reconnect and make some new memories.

We took a bus from Yilan to Taipei, then a bus to Taichung, where we stayed the night at my friend's
house. Since our moving to Yilan, she has opened a successful buxibam in Taichung which was impressive.

The next day we took a train to Kaohsiung and then we took an hour taxi to Dongang harbor.
There are two ferry companies that I found and I bought our tickets online a week before.

Ferry to Dong Gang Online Booking  (08) 832-5806, (08) 833-8722 fax: (08) 833-2413   

As for hotels, the whole island was sold out. Having three adults worked out as we could get a "family room "(4 queen beds) but even then I had three places to chose from and chose the cheapest. The room was fine, the location was away from the harbor but in walking distance of places to eat. They had scooters waiting for us at the ferry dock.
Family Room Price

Explore XLQ island

We pretty much took two days to hit all of these in an anticlockwise order: Vase Rock, Beauty Cave.
Seaview Pavilion, Duozaiping, Sanfu Eco Park Trail, Gebanwan (beach), Black Dwarf Cave,
Sunset Galley, SE part of island: Mouse Rock, Lighthouses, NE: Lobster Cave, ChungAu Beach,

Middle of Island: Wetland Park,山豬溝 Shanzhuguo Forest Trail, Secret Beach

The Black Dwark Cave disappointing, We stood in line for over twenty minutes and crawling
through the tiny unimpressive cave took just a few moments. I think the obese Russain gentleman in
front of us got stuck and that's why it took him so long. There ought to be some warning sign as it is a
tight squeeze in some sections.

Turtle we saw whilesnorkeling

I was planning on going scuba diving, and was in contact with one of the diving shops but the weather
was cool and I was lazy and didn't want to be cold. We went snorkeling instead via my hostel's contact.
Snorkeling with a Taiwanese company is in itself an experience. Our guy yelled at me for swimming on
my own for a closer look at a friendly turtle, as we were required to hold onto a floaty.

We went snorkeling years before in Kenting with my Taiwanese friend (and my kid's swimming teacher)
and her daughter in Kenting, and of course it was very carefree and leisurely snorkeling. I guess its a
liability for the companies, but when we returned it took them less than my shower time to have burned
me a CD with photos.

Turtles in the shallow harbor

New Year's Eve, the only thing my daughter wanted to do was fish. The owner of a fishing gear shop, was of course out fishing, and when he finally returned, we went to the most southern harbor right before sunset.

To our surprise, there were 5 large turtles just hanging out in the shallow thigh-high water. It was tempting not to jump in with them there. Obviously, my kid didn't throw her line in those particular waters. Hooking a turtle, and a protected turtle would be a horrid way to end 2018.

My friend's partner is quite the fisherwoman herself, and helped my kid many times with her line, with no luck. However, it was more fun trying, as well as a quiet, relaxing medium to ring in the new year.

Resources:

Diving /Snorkeling

小琉球綠蠵龜潛水住宿 LiouCiou Green Sea Turtle Diving Camp; Hostels

Accommodation: Home Sweet Beach Hotel TWD 9,720 including breakfast vouchers for 2 nights

TCM and Incense: A Cornucopia of Chinese Herbs

Handmade, all-natural incense

I might as well take advantage of the amazing national health care system in Taiwan, which includes traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). We aren't sick, but my kid wants to grow taller and I want my hair thicker or at least return to the state before I had a kid when my hair was at its healthiest.

On the left: giant bowls of powdered incense. On the right: my TCM herbs

We went to the TCM Dr right before his lunch break. It cost 140NT each including a week's worth of herbs (powdered to be taken with water 3x a day). On the way back we stopped at this family-owned incense making shop. It smells like heaven driving by on the scooter. They have been using the same methods since time memorial, no synthetic toxins and only make sandalwood or "Chinese medicine." Incidentally, the incense in its powdered form looks exactly like the Chinese medicine prescribed to us that come in little packets (washed down with a big gulp of water.) I bought a pack of sandalwood for 200NT and Chinese medicine for 100NT. Looks like 100 sticks in a packet, sure to last a long time.

She is her mother's daughter, and my kid was quickly using my phone to look up the herbs she would be taking to help boost a growth spurt. I had her try and find the English translations for me. Here is a comprehensive list of TCM herbs and another glossary of herbs.

12 Year Old Girl's Herbs for Growing Taller:
1.Shenling Baizhu San (Mix) Nourishes the spleen and enhances the absorption of nutrients
A proprietary blend of:

Radix Codonopsis Pilosulae Sclerotium Poriae Cocos Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae Rhizoma Dioscoreae Oppositae (Mt. Potato) Semen Lablab Album Semen Nelumbinis Nuciferae Semen Coicis Lachryma-Jobi Fructus Amomi Radix Platycodi Grandiflori Radix Glycyrrhizae Uralensis (Licorice root)

2. 4 Plant Soup The formula consists of four Chinese herbs, Ginseng or Codonopsis, Atractylodes, Poria, and Licorice.

3. Mt.Potato/ Chinese Yam/ "Mountain Medicine" (Dioscorea) Is a tonic for the kidneys and spleen and nourishes Yin. This slimy, starchy tuber is commonly found in the morning markets in Taiwan, although I have never cooked it before. It often is included in tonic packets, in a dried form, to be included in chicken herb soups, which I have cooked before. Maybe I should try it in a stirfry as it has antiaging properties and supports a healthy immune system. It also is used in most Asian cuisines and can be eaten raw.

4. Glossy Privet Fruit  Used for premature menopause and aging. Chinese privet has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for over 1,000 years. The fruit is antibacterial, antiseptic, anti-tumour, cardiotonic, diuretic and tonic. It is taken internally in the treatment of complaints associated with weak kidney and liver energy such as menopausal problems (especially premature menopause), blurred vision, cataracts, tinnitus, rheumatic pains, palpitations, backache and insomnia. Modern research has shown that the plant increases the white blood cell count and is of value when used to prevent bone marrow loss in cancer chemotherapy patients, it also has potential in the treatment of AIDS.  Good results have also been achieved when the fruit has been used in treating respiratory tract infections, hypertension, Parkinson's disease and hepatitis.

• Enrich the blood and invigorate the circulation of blood.
• Fight against oxidation and scavenge free radicals.

5. Xuduan (Teasal Root) Tones liver, kidneys, sinew and bones and helps lower back or knee pain. It stimulates new bone growth and regulates menstruation.
6. Glossar ?

43Year Old Mom's Improving Blood/Chi Circulation for Hair:
1.Gui Pi Tang/"Return to Spleen" (11 plant soup stock) Nourishes the blood and chi to the spleen and offsets stress, being overworked and turning off the busy mind at night. Being a working single mom, I can attest to overthinking and worrying which aggravate imbalances in heart blood and spleen chi.  Symptoms of such an imbalance are forgetfulness and insomnia. Well, I don't have insomnia, I just stall going to bed. Gui Pi Wan improves sleep, mental clarity during the day and digestion. (Check out Mental Tranquility)

2. Zuo Gui Pian (8 herbs including arugula, honey and dried dates) A classic Ming dynasty formula used to treat infertility and kidney yin deficiencies. A proprietary blend of:

Radix Rehmanniae Preparata Rhizoma Dioscoreae Oppositae Fructus Corni Officinalis Colla Cornus Cervi Colla Carapacis Et Plastri Testudinis Fructus Lycii Chinensis Semen Cuscutae Chinensis Radix Achyranthis Bidentatae

3. Shen Chang
4. He Shou Wu/Fleeceflower Root/ Fo Ti (radix polygni multiflora) The herb of intuition and longevity, it is rich in iron and zinc which nourishes blood deficiency, premature greying, hair growth, boosts the libido, and repairs DNA. There's a tincture on Amazon ($20).   The herb was found in ancient Taoist texts, written about in AD 800 when a frail old man named He reportedly fell asleep next to this vine. He felt inclined to dig up the root, consumed regularly for a week and his youthful vigor returned. Even his hair color returned, giving it the Chinese name" "He's Black Hair". Fo Ti is traditionally prepared in a "secret" method involving a black bean sauce. Interestingly, its one of 3 herbs said to expand the consciousness, the other two being Reishi (mushrooms) and Tulsi/Holy Basil according to this article.

5. Chai Hu (purple yam)/ Bupleurum Traditionaly used for blood disorders and liver diseases it is anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer.

6. Dan Shen/Salvia Miltiorhiza (red sage)/Chinese sage/ The root and rhizome are used to nourish the blood and calm the spirit and balance the circulatory system. Its very powerful in treating heart disease and agina and many other benefits.

Our TCM Dr. recommended  that I get a sonograph (ultrasound) of my thyroid as I had a thyroid problem post-partum (12 years ago.) So I went to the new University hospital by the train station and had them take 6 vials of blood to test. I'm going back in 2 weeks to discuss the results. Until then its powdered TCM herbs with water 3x a day.

Sweet Child O'Mine: My Kid's First Show

Last night was the much-anticipated Guns and Roses concert outside Taipei. At least for my kid who has been counting the days, Christmas came early. She's still incredulous that were it not for her, I wouldn't have voluntarily gone. I am so glad she is here, for many more reasons other than the show, but yes, I am very thankful I got to go see such an epic performance. It's one of these special, core memories I will have with my kid forever, taking her to her first concert and her favourite band to boot. It was doubly enjoyable for me, as she was over the moon and it was a legitimate kick-ass performance. She sang along to every song like a true fan, knew which album it was from and loved guessing which song was next by the teasing strums from Slash.

Speaking of whom, Slash was a beast, a mythical creature, a Minotaur weaving us through a labyrinth of fingering, spine-tingling solos. He didn't take a break and played while the other guys changed shirts and Melissa added a ponytail. It was the rhythm guitarist Richard's birthday and he rocked! He was dancing and jamming his strums, I was beyond impressed. Duff didn't disappoint, he sang  Attitude and has a better than decent, a damn good voice, and he was all over the stage (they all were). They all jammed pretty fiercely. What I enjoyed were the covers, obviously "Live and Let Die" from Paul McCartney, and "Knock'n on Heaven's Door", but they did an instrumental "Wish You Were Here", which always chokes me up and then went into a Chris Cornel tribute with "Blackhole Sun" which was flawless, intense. I especially liked "Civil War" and thought "Night Train" sounded a helluva lot better live. [The complete setlist is here.]

Guns N'Roses was a band I grew up with watching MTV in middle school, they had some decent songs. I respected Slash. Axl was one of those interesting personalities, he seemed like a dick. In high school, I prefered Nirvana or Smashing Pumpkins. But after living with my kid who knows everything about the band, and even read Slash's biography, I had a wider appreciation of them. After the concert, I am doing the whole Wayne's World, "We're not worthy". They sounded so much better live. Axl sounded in full form. Maybe it's living in Asia and teaching junior high kids who fawn over k-pop lipsynchers, but I was impressed that Axel could belt out and whistle and keep it real, "Hey kids.." He led us in singing Happy Birthday to Richard and afterwards said, "Thank God we got that bullsh%t over with!"

I regret not having better seats. I was embarrassed in front of my kid, she got angry at me for complaining, and was happy enough to see everything, "Check out this view!" We didn't get the cheapest 800NT tickets, but the next cheapest, so  I figured we wouldn't be as high as we were. With the money we paid the scalpers, I could have gotten better seats! Most of everyone I knew at the show were down front on the floor, my former boss was literally front row. I ran into the old beach gang from Tainan in the 7-11 and the owner of Drifters. Funny, running into familiar faces in a crowd, the magic of a concert. I hadn't been to one in years, I think the last one was in Denver 11 years ago before heading to Taiwan (Jane's Addiction).

Then there was the whole camera drama before. We checked into a hostel (Homey Hostel) in Taipei and I thought about it, should I bring my camera or not. My phone camera is absolute crap and I wanted a nice photo memory of me and my daughter at her favourite moment of 2018 to be our Christmas photo.  But the security at the concert was thorough, they wouldn't let me take in my camera, so we headed back to the train station. Unfortunately, all the lockers were full, as well as all the lockers at the previous stations. So I went into the bathroom (waiting in line forever) and tried to tie it to my belt, in between my legs, but it was dangling visibly from my jean skirt, so my kid just stuffed it into my leggings (it's not a small camera). We walked back to security and saw they were waving metal detector wands and I didn't want to chance being caught and banned from the show. My kid told me to hide it in the bushes, which was probably the best idea, but I was afraid it would rain (it didn't). So she went to the  First Aid/ Help booth and tried the waterworks (didn't work either) and basically we ended up running to 7-11 stood in line for 40 minutes and posted my camera back to Yilan in a box without any bubble wrap. I took off my sweater and scarf, wrapped it up and hoped for the best. It looked like my lens was sticking out a bit and I won't be surprised if it's broken when it returns.

It's all good as we didn't miss the opening song, "It's So Easy. The crowd was pumped,  the third song was "Chinese Democracy" which had a whole new meaning for me seeing it there. Go Taiwan, the crowd was so ready, my daughter was so ready, her rite of passage into the journey of live shows.

After the show, the hordes lining up to catch the last trains back to Taipei were daunting (last train was 11:15). I stupidly forgot to buy an Easy card for the train ride back (save time lining up to buy a chip). I also wanted my camera back and waited in line (again) at 7-11, getting some water and a rice seaweed triangle (we hadn't eaten since breakfast.). The staff at 7-11 wouldn't, or couldn't give me back my camera. We were tempted by taxi drivers preying on concertgoers, 800NT per person back to Taipei.  I just wanted to go to the airport (a few stops ahead) and take the express train back, but none of them would do it. They wanted to fit in as many people as they could for the maximum profit. I almost took a taxi back, but when he opened the boot (space behind the back seat) for my kid to sit, I grabbed her hand pulled her out, vultures trying to fill their pockets. We tried our luck with the throngs at the train station and made it, sleeping most of the way back on the Night Train back to Taipei. We pulled in a little after midnight, quickly walked to our hostel, and were in bed by 1:15.

The next day my kid was too tired to do anything as planned (while in Taipei might as well do something.) I had planned on going to Yangmingshan to photograph the maple trees, but as my camera was gone, lost the urge, and we were back in sunny Yilan by noon.

Seeing Slash jamming the guitar behind his back, even if we could only see him on the screen, we were in the presence of greatness. I admit I was jealous of people in front of me with their fancier smartphones, zooming in on the band, so it looks like they were front row, while my camera could barely focus in the dark. Still, sitting beside my kid screaming out joyfully, her giddy face with stars in her eyes, priceless.

Heart and Seoul Weekend Getaway

I'm so thankful for 10/10 and all the glorious 10/10 holiday weekend travel opportunities. This year was no exception. I found cheap flights to Seoul, and my kid loved Busan two years ago, so I was keen to take her to the big city for some culture.  I found return flights for two at 12,000 NT with Jin Air.

What a happy surprise, one of my favourite beers from home I can't get in Taiwan, Oh My Guesthouse

There are several ways to get from Incheon Airport to the city. We took the fast airport train to Seoul Station and changed twice (Jogngno Station, then Gyeonbokgung Station) to our guesthouse. On our return trip we just took the Airport Limousine (10,000 KRW/ NT 274 each), as our flight was early and there would be no traffic on the road, the bus only took an hour and seemed easier than switching trains.

Getting around Seoul, or our northern bit was easy with the rechargeable T-Money Card (KRW 3,000). We used it for buses and subways, recharged it several times and passed it on to our Guesthouse owners to gift to other travellers.

 We stayed north of the river (Jogno) near to the president's house and all the UNESCO palaces and famous markets. There was enough to see and do (and eat) in this area for 4 days and 4 nights. Our guesthouse was conveniently situated 2 bus stops (10-minute walk) from Gyeonbokgung Station, one block from the Northern palace entrance and president's house.

Our Oh My Guesthouse was in a residential neighbourhood. The owners lived upstairs and were extremely friendly and helpful. When we arrived we happily ate their leftovers, sweet potato noodles with veg, a little meat and seaweed, very fragrant with sesame oil and roasted seeds and nourishing. There were 3 rooms around the shared kitchen and all us guests (a Russian couple, and a Japanese woman) all had our own bathroom. Breakfast was complimentary and included hard boiled eggs, toast, coffee, fruit, cereal. Enough to fuel us until brunch at the traditional market a couple of blocks away. Our room was a bunk bed, desk, very simple and new for (NT 3,628/ KRW132,000) 4 nights. Obviously, she got the top bunk.

My kid was begging to rent a traditional Korean Hanbok dress and there are several places to rent them around Gyeongokgung Palace. She rented the cheapest one for 10,000 for 4 hours and we busted ass to get it back on time, and were late 10 minutes and charged 2000 KRW for it (not much, like 100 NT). So I'd recommend renting the Hanbock for the day. We were literally running those last ten minutes to make it on time, and I twisted my ankle something fierce (stupidly wearing boots with a small heel) and now several weeks later it's still not 100% recovered.

View of Deoksugung Palace from the 13th floor cafe in City Hall (Jeongdong Observatory), free, Seoul Subway Line 1, 2 Exit 11

Our first day it was raining, but not intense like Yilan, so for us it was fine, and by the afternoon and the rest of our trip it was sunny and dry. I had anticipated it would be cold, having gone on previous 10/10 holidays to Japan, freezing our tails off, but no, Seoul was warm enough during the day and constantly walking, sightseeing, we were overdressed.

Our first couple of days we explored the most famous five Grand Joseon Palaces and Confucius Shrine, which are conveniently clustered together and World Heritage Sites. I bought a combination ticket, which was good for a month, and on the first day, my kid had free entry with her Hanbok dress.

Selfie at the Secret Garden

 I especially looked forward to the Secret Garden tour, as that was memorable for me when I visited it 14 years ago during the winter. I was hoping to see some trees changing color and we weren't disappointed.  The only way to see the Secret Garden is to take a tour and when we were there, the Korean tour was starting so we joined them.

Sandwiched between Gyeonbokgung and Changdeokgung is Bukchon, a quaint tourist trap of beautiful traditional "hanok" Korean houses and cafes, galleries and international restaurants. We saw a couple of the old style houses and roofs and turned back. My kid and I prefer to eat street food, cheap shops frequented by Uni students, or the traditional market between our Oh My Guesthouses and Gyeonbokgung station. It's much cheaper and authentic. A street away from Gyeonbokgung Station there is a "food street" where we splurged on a traditional Korean BBQ dinner. I came to the conclusion that many Korean foods are food you eat when drinking beer or foods you eat nursing a hangover from drinking too much. My kid and I basically were walking and eating the whole time, sampling this and that.

On our last full day, we spent it at the touristy and expensive Insadong neighbourhood, just south of Bukchon. Here we went to three different traditional tea houses (and some of the cities oldest), walked into a few art galleries, antique stores and of course headed straight for the Trick Eye Museum (what we also did in Busan two years ago.)

The tea houses we visited were Dawon in the garden of the Kyungin Museum of Fine Art, Shin Old Tea House (신옛찻집), sitting on the floor in a little private, sunny and  airy veranda sipping chrysanthemum tea, and the Moonbird Only Thinks of the Moon 달새는 달만 생각한다), a dusty, bric-a-brac faded photograph feeling nook off an alley, blast from the past which my kid loved.

During our time we tried to visit  Namdaemon Market but really just stayed in the periphery. Looking into the cramped, crowded bodies on bodies crowd is my kid's least favourite thing, so we also skipped on the newer Dongdaemun Market. There are so many night markets around this area, including the upscale Myeongdong Market, Gwangjang and the front gate of Ewha Women's University -if one is so inclined.


My kid and I were more into the food, tea and history than shopping.

There were tons of examples of a lively democratic public body, free speech, protests, political posters, people camping out. I couldn't read Korean, but the photos of Nazi Trump buddying up with Kim Jong-Un were obvious enough.

All and all an epic short and sweet trip. If we ever return,  or if  I had an extra day, I'd like to take her to the DMZ which is a day trip from Seoul (I was there in 2004 on a tour with the US Army).

Accommodation	NT 3,628/ 132,000
Airport Limo/ AREX all stops	Limo 1100NT/660NT ₩40,000/₩24,000
T-Money Card (transport)	₩3,000 x2=₩6,000/ NT 165
2 days Lunch + Dinner (₩ 7,000 a meal) 1 day ₩ 30,000/ 2 days + 1 dinner = ₩ 95,000	₩ 100,000= 2, 750 NT Be safe: 5,000/181,728
shopping/extra/	5,000NT/ 181, 728
Combined Palace Tour	₩ 10,000 each/ NT 550 (total)
Changdeokgung Secret Garden	8,000 ₩
Follow Cheonggyecheon Stream	free
Jeongdong Observatory (정동전망대 view of Deoksugung Palace. cafe located on the same floor if you need a refreshment.	free
Hike Bukhansan	free
Sunset over Bukchon Hanok Village	free
Total

September Cornucopia: Persimmon

Maybe it was global warming or the lack of summer typhoons that were spinning away from Taiwan every time, but persimmon season came a month early in my backwater. My landlady's dad has a few trees in front of my house (which he gave me a bucket full), and my neighbors have tons. Not wanting to waste and in the spirit of exploration we tried out all kinds of persimmon recipes.

Where I come from in the States, persimmon isn't available (when I was growing up). I didn't even know what they were until moving to Taiwan, but apparently, the Pacific NW and California have them. They are also grown in Korea and Japan.

Crepe cake with persimmon-ginger, flax seed jam

There are two main varieties, one that can be eaten crunchy like an apple (Fuyu) and the other that is only sweet when its soft and bursting like a fig (Hachiya). My neighborhood has the latter. I got literally over 40 on the verge of bursting ones from my neighbor, so my kid and I made a batch of jam and added a bit of ginger from another neighbor and some chia seeds for nutrition (and it helps to gel.)  We burnt the bottom of our pan (it was too thin) and had to try and remove the burnt bits before we gave some to our neighbors and coworkers. Once opened, it had to be eaten within a few days because the chia seeds made it spoil easily. We had so much, my kid baked a bunch of crepes and used the jam to make a crepe cake!

 Most of our leftovers I pureed and put into the freezer or I used the dehydrator and dried them. With the dehydrated pieces, I made a Korean fruit tea (Sujeonggwa) that is stewed with ginger and cinnamon sticks. It's traditionally served cold, but its such an autumn weather drink for a cool rainy day like today! 

Persimmon Cheesecake

We just got another bag from our neighbor so my daughter baked some it into a cheesecake. There is still plenty of fruit left over for another batch of cookies or fruit bread spiked with rum. This cornucopia of baking with persimmon isn't doing any favors for my waistline, but life is still sweet.