About Me

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Yilan, Taiwan
I just returned back to the States after 11 years in Taiwan with my daughter. Taiwan is an excellent base for us explore Asia, while living in relative (gun free) safety, while benefiting from a cheap and efficient national health care system. The people are amazing too. I have Taiwanese friendships that are 20 years old and I'm always making new ones! My coworker here in CO is from Taiwan.

Saturday, January 31, 2015

I'm like a rubberband

I am not a Sia fan, but when I watched these dancers on SNL I was moved. The choreography is a bit of a parody, but I thought there were moments when it was breathtaking, the execution was spot on.
It reminded me of myself and Z, being a single mom, with my daughter. The sometimes intensity of just us, no other family in this alien world where we are the aliens and this kantikoy of dependence and independence, the changing stages of her growth as a child and me too, constantly adjusting.
As for the lyrics, it reminds me that to love and parent, you really have to be fighting for peace against a world that is violent and totally at war with innocence. "Fighting for peace" is a bit of a contradiction lived out at times, the drama of choosing your battles. When the voices tell you its worth the fight and discomfort, loss of friendship or when God says, " Put down your sword...Don't be afraid I have already conquered the world."  The real war is just to maintain my peace and rest in that place of Grace that tells me the battle was finished before I was born. I return to that equilibrium, Light.
To chose to be a parent (because for me it was a choice), it came from a place of optimism. Despite the world being so vicious, there is Hope (hence one of her names). 
"You did not break me
I'm still fighting for peace"
The world hasn't broken me yet, Z has yet to see me fall apart as this dancer does dramatically, but my daughter and I do have this at times a mythological interplay of dancing archetypes.

"I've got thick skin and an elastic heart
But your blade it might be too sharp
I'm like a rubberband until you pull too hard
I may snap and I move fast
But you won't see me fall apart
'Cos I've got an elastic heart"...


Wednesday, January 28, 2015

The Two Faces of January


There is not much time to recover from Christmas and New Year, when its birthday season for me and my daughter.

Birthdays are always an adventure with my daughter. For her 1st we had an aquarium party in Denver and her 2nd was a butterfly party at the butterfly pavilion (also in Denver).  I would have to go through photo albums to recall birthday number 3 and 4.





In Tainan for her 5th, we had a little pottery making party. For her 7th, we had pinata and pizza in the park, and for her 9th, here in Yilan we had a little rock climbing party. (For her 6th and 8th it was finals, so she just brought in treats to her classmates).



A coworker told me about the nearby climbing wall, just a 10 minute drive outside Yilan City, so I thought we could invite her friends there for a climbing activity party.

We bought a cheesecake at Carrefoure and she wanted to decorate it with gum drops and Skittles, which we did with a homemade green frosting.  She wanted pink party hair, so I hit the local Poya bought some pink hair spray and painted her braids.

Gumdrops and Skittles Cheesecake


The Climbing wall is at YOY 歪仔歪攀岩館The kids enjoyed the climbing wall, but mostly they preferred to wrestle on the thick mats.  For men and children its 100NT to enter even if you are not climbing, women are free. I of course tried to climb. Going up is easy, but coming down, yikes, I'm such a wuss.



We also went to Z's favorite restaurant "Tasty's" for her 9th and for my 40th. Yes I just turned the big four oh my goodness, I can't believe I'm 40 when I feel eternally 25.  My travel buddy Bruno from Italy (we met in Sumatra a few years ago and just kept in touch) returned to Taiwan for another island tour, stopping in Yilan for a few nights. So he joined us for my Tasty's birthday dinner.






Tasty's might think we are scamming them the exra birthday attention haha, twice within the space of 2 weeks, and we were there for our friend AJ's birthday in November. I think that's enough Tasty's for me for the next year.

My Aquarian cup continues to overflow; my Yilan friends took us out for a Japanese hot pot  birthday dinner  at Shabu Shabu. Z got a my little pony which she played with her friend.

Full of hot pot and birthday bliss
As turning 40 is kind of a big deal, I decided to make a special weekend celebration. I took 2 days off and on my birthday flew back to Borneo for 4 days of bliss and adventure...

Saturday, January 17, 2015

Above the clouds: New Years Day in Taipingshan


Snow in Taiwan!

My New Year's Eve was mellow. I was in bed on the 31st by 10 pm. My life here in Yilan M-F is exhausting. Come Friday night I am passed out on my sofa if I didn't make it to my bed. But the early bird gets the worm and we were up and out the door early January 1st on our way to Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area- the closest park to the more popular and photogenic Taroko National Park.


My friend AJ drove which was a relief because once in the park, there was zero visibility as we climbed the mountain road switchback in a permanent cloud. We literally couldn't see more than 15-20 feet, it was a bit scary as local drivers are not as safety oriented- no light and as fast as possible. We passed a few accidents and had a few close calls.



Finally after reaching higher altitude, maybe after 22 km on the main  (and only) park road, we drove above the clouds and the views were glorious. We got out at the first trail to stretch our legs, it was an easy 20 minute walk, not much of a hike along an ancient, twisted train track dating back to the cypress logging days.

Train wreck! Love the moss and the view from there are glorious mountains as far as the eye can see.


We continued driving further into the park, past the lake where all the people were and hit an outer trail- Beech Trail. It started our fairly flat the first hour and then descended straight down. The return meant coming back on an almost vertical ascent, but that part had steps. It provided a good workout and lovely views of the clouds rolling below us in and out of the curves of Prussian Blue mountain ranges.


We ended our day when it quickly started getting dark, like around 4:30. We decided to try our luck at the hot springs near the entrance. Having been here before we knew the parking lot is small and we wanted to chance getting a private outdoor pool. Knowing it was a holiday weekend, we drove in and were stopped by traffic. It took about 10 minutes to get into the parking lot which was full and had several big buses from Taipei taking up a lot of room, and probably pools. Still we found a space in the dirt parking lot they carved out near the river below, We got lucky and a private outdoor "Family" pool was available in 40 minutes- just enough time to refuel on surprisingly good food and a cup of super strong coffee.

Our private room, the outdoor view was more like a giant window letting the dark forest at night.

The hot spring water was piping hot, we had to add more cold water, but soon were soaking away our body blues from both sitting in the car too long and from the exertion from our hike. It was perfect and the 50 minutes for 1000NT went by too soon. 

We made it back to Yilan and had enjoyed the rest of our 4 day New Years weekend, chillaxing and eating out. Actually I can't remember what we did, 17 days ago seems like another season after the week I had.....to be continued.

Lofty dreams for 2015 inspired by standing on the pinnacle of a colossal view 


Saturday, January 3, 2015

So long 2014

 Tung Flower Festival, Sanzhi

In this 4 day weekend, today my Saturday, I for once didn't do much of anything, which is kind of strange, and irregular for me, but necessary. I took pause to reflect on the year that's just faded into memories and photo albums. It was a busy year, but there are just a couple of stand out experiences I am forever grateful for. In chronological order:



1. Chinese New Year in Myanmar

Just getting there was a trip, I missed our flight from Singapore into Yangoon. I loved Burma, the people, so many ethnicities, and the food was better than I expected. It was hard traveling for Z, we covered a lot of distance in a short amount of time, which meant night buses galore coming into town at 5am. She's a seasoned trooper, literally the best travel buddy I've ever had. (Full Myanmar photo album here).


 In Myanmar, I have to say my 39th birthday was amazing. We went into a teak plantation and hung out with working elephants who were making a camp for that spring until the rainy season came. We rode their little troupe and watched a mom play with her baby (she is free from work the for 3 years while caring for her baby).



The elephants and their handlers were making a temporary damn for the elephants while they worked there for that logging season. They cut down a majestic, old grandfather tree by hand, which pained me to see such a grand old tree fall, then the elephant dragged it back to their little damn. We watched from the elephants back, their handlers were kind, there were no canes or whips, just clucking and speaking to them. They are handlers of the same elephants for life and its the elephants who pick their handlers. Their wives and children all live together in a little camp of 2 or 3 huts by the river. As for "tourists" there was just me, my daughter and a French lady. It was hardly the kind of elephant set up "rehab" I've seen in Thailand. This was no walk in the park. We were tagging along while they worked-and this was their day off, making a little damn. There were no trails in this teak rainforest, the elephants were bush-wacking with us on their backs. I was just worried the tree would land on us as we were right next to it while they used muscle and an ax, but they were experts. They have been loggin teak with elephants since ancient Thai and Burmese kings considered it the royal wood for palaces and temples, since British colonials increased the demand. Unfortunately the demand for teak continues. Though the handlers told us they replant so as to not over log, I fear money and the military junta's hand will continue to play a negative part in order to feed the insatiable demand by Scandinavian furniture makers.


For lunch we went to a little auntie's place across from the local school; a one room dirt floor, 3 bamboo walled hut with 3 classes, big kids, little kids and those in between. Being surrounded by their smiles made my incredible birthday.

Z putting thenaka on my face while lunch is cooking
The school house 

Of course Inle Lake was amazing, colder than we expected but an adventure exploring by boat. Then there was Bagan and exploring the endless tamarind tree fields littered with old temples,  and Mt Popa, the Burmese Mt. Olympus. One day we rented a horse cart and the driver gave Z the reigns the whole day. It was great fun.


One of the most memorable Burmese experiences was our "hell train" adventure. We took what I thought would be a 6 hour scenic train from outside of Inle Lake (Shwenyaung) through the mountains to Thazi.
All smiles as our "hell train" left in the morning
It took 15 hours, our train was at a standstill in the middle of nowhere for sometime as a train further down the line broke down. The last 4 hours were freezing. The train was a living relic from the British Empire, wooden, and looked like it hadn't been cleaned since colonial times, it was covered in rust, dust, open windows, the toilet was a muddy hole cut into the car.

 I was nursing a kidney infection and met a friendly and knowledgeable Israeli acupuncturist who smartly got out in the next stop 4 hours from Inle.





We pulled into Thazi at midnight and were stepping over sleeping bodies in the dark sprawled all over that station. The stars were amazing. We walked to a roadside motel and crashed hard after a hot shower. The next morning early we took a local bus (van packed like sardines) to Lake Meiktila. I paid few pennies extra to sit in front with the driver, Z got car sick and he slowed down, but we made it.

 






2. I got my APRC!

Finally after 5 years I could apply for my coveted Alien residence card. Thanks to my friend and Chinese tutor Kevin for fronting me the 10,000NT in March to get it.(See Congrats To Me! I'm legal!)

3. A Family Visit

My parents and brother Ed visited Taiwan for the first time in July 2014. It was the first time my mom and bro have been out of North America. Unfortunately, when they visited there was a heat wave and it was the hottest at the suburb of Taiwan (Banciao) we were staying at. Of course they were troopers, sweating buckets but just grateful to be together again, to be with their granddaughter.


They really didnt have enough time to learn to appreciate the local food. My Dad and bro only stayed a week, my mom stayed a few weeks longer and helped watch my daughter and pack my things while I worked my last weeks at Share Fun.





After a few days exploring Taipei we went to Jiaoxi for a few days exploring the local waterfalls, hot springs and we took a boat to Turtle Island to see the dolphins. Then my Dad rented a car and we drove to Taroko along the scenic but dangerous Suhua Highway. Afterwards, we all headed south to Tainan.

In Tainan I showed them the Confucius Temple, they enjoyed eating at the western food restaurants by local expats (Funkoo, Tin Pan Diner). It was crowded at my little apartment, and hot, so my Dad moved my mom and bro down the road to the Tai Landis Hotel next to Mitzuokoshi. Before my Dad and bro took the highspeed back to Taoyuan, we did a family group photo session which was good fun, at least my daughter was in her element.



4. Starting a new life in Yilan

Thanks to my co-worker Steve for getting me this job. He was a big help during the interview process, settling here and getting into the swing of things at school.

Moving was not easy, in fact it was harder than I expected- and I moved around my whole life so I thought I was used to these things. I went through bags of books, clothes, giving them away and still I had so many things I had accumulated from 6 years of living in Tainan. It felt great to say goodbye to my job as I felt stuck there, and yet compared to my job now in Yilan, my job down south was so much easier, less stress. I loved teaching the kids there and building relationships with families, with the community there. That was hard turning my back on, and yet life is temporary, our lives in Taiwan are temporary. 

We took a chance on Yilan and getting used to the life here was also more difficult than I expected. I knew it wasnt going to be easy, that it would take a few months to find my groove, learn a new system, but I think for all the increase in workload, I am more productive and am learning a helluva lot in terms of teaching and planning. I'm teaching junior high, elementary and kindergarten of all levels which requires a lot more planning, prepping and flexibility. There is good and bad at every job, of course this one is no exception, but when I stop learning then its time to change my outlook or change my scenery. As for my daughter she is learning English and Chinese. Her Mandarin is fluent, but I was starting to get concerned for her English writing, so I hope she can improve in this area.

Exploring Yilan has been good fun and having a car, finally after 6 years is so much more convenient than my grass cutter scooter. Parking in Yilan City is no picnic, but at least we are dry when it rains. Speaking of the rain, I don't have enough fingers to count how many people warned me of winters here, that I wont see the sun for months, and yet the weather has been pretty good, good enough to explore on the weekends. Living in Anping I didn't really see the mountains like I do every day here. On my way to work I look at those mountains everyday and every day they look different, I also see Turtle Island and the ocean right before I pull into work, cant beat that. Its a small dose of positive energy before I have the dreadful task of parking.

I should mention the apartment I have now is a big step up from the old one I had in Anping. This place is outside the congested, small laned city center across from the massive park on the grounds of the County Government Building and is 3 years old, furnished and bright. My drive to work is a straight shot down a non residential-commercial area. I feel blessed.

5. My Santa Cruz Consort

My dearest was my neighbor in Anping, my good friend and this past year he continued to be my kind, patient, sacrificial partner when I needed him most. Andrew helped me move, he helped my buy my car and drove it here from Tainan, he visits on weekends whenever he can. He is a great blessing and positive male energy for me and my daughter.



For these 5 above blessings, 2014 has been a predominately positive year. Other standout experiences of 2014; visiting my old friend of 14 years north in her home in Sanzhi, Saturday yoga with the ladies in Anping and a Single Mom and Daughter Dragon Boat Weekend in Kenting.

 I also have to mention that this year we were divinely free from sickness and robustly healthy, so we were physically able to enjoy these blessings, which is something not to be taken for granted. You can eat clean, exercise, meditate, sleep well and then have what the news headlines recently called, "bad luck." As for us, it's more than good luck that sustained us this past year, it was lots of prayers by family and friends back home, simple prayers by us here and busy angels raining heavenly love. 

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Ring in the New Year in Yilan? Possibly Maybe



Still haven't made any plans for our upcoming 4 day weekend? I'm undecided myself. Should I stay or make the journey south to Tainan and see old friends. If you're undecided,  then take a chance on Yilan.


 In case a nightlife is your scene then save your trip to Yilan for another time. There is none of that. But you could catch the first morning light of the new year at Su-ao overlooking the Pacific at 6:37am. There are several coffee shops overlooking the beach.

You will find more accommodation options in Jiaoxi as its tailored to Taipei weekend goers who want some hot spring waters in their bathtubs.  However there are some hotels in Yilan City too.

Across from Yilan Train Station
Getting here:
Driving from Southern Taiwan, there are several options, either way you will come through some of of Taiwan's and Asia's longest tunnels.

From Taipei: The buses (Capitol Star and Kamalan) are faster than the train unless you get on the fastest train that goes to Hualien. Tickets are sold out by now, you can go still, but you'll be standing in the aisles. The bus from Taipei Main Station and City Hall, leave every 15 minutes and is around 120NT and the drive is around 70 minutes. The bus depot in Yilan is behind the train station, you'll need to take a taxi or rent a scooter to your hotel. Even with a valid car driver's license, foreigners can only rent the smallest scooter, you need a scooter license to rent bigger scooters.

Balagov's Ukrainian Cafe


Where to eat:
Of course Yilan City looks like any city in Taiwan, you can find noodles, dumplings, rice boxes anywhere. But if you want a real treat head to Mr. Balagov's Cafe (Guava Dog in Chinese) for homemade healthy Ukrainian food. The space itself is gorgeous with Ukrainian knickknacks, wall stencils, every corner has some folk art that Sergei the owner brought back with him. He is an interesting dude, having lived in Brooklyn for years, his English is excellent and his wife is aboriginal so she of course also speaks Mandarin. She has helped me out when I needed to find something in Yilan.  I go there once a week as a treat and often buy a bottle of Kvass to last me during the week, sometimes I splurge and buy a loaf of rye break or homemade Ukrainian sausage. My favorite meal is the set meal with meatballs and mashed potatoes that includes borscht soup, kvass and apple cake. He also serves Turkish coffee and sheesha, should that tickle your fancy. The homemade  blueberry and mint ice-cream with crepes are also good. Definately wash your meal down with a big bottle of thirst quenching Russian beer. You wont reget coming here. What never fails to astound me are the local tour buses and crowds that head to the mediocre place next door. Taiwanese tourists come to Balagov's to take photos of their gorgeous little garden and cottage and then eat at the bland run of the  mill Taiwanese place, passing over a local treasure. Don't make the same mistake.

If you want to eat Italian,Thai, Sushi Express or go to Tasty's head to Lunar Plaza, the local mall. There is also a Carrefore in the basment and parking, which is a royal pain if you are driving a car.

Beer at Piggy's


Other recommendations are Awesome Burger which is like a mom and pop TGIF set up. They have a peanut butter burger which I havent had the desire to try, tho I love peanut butter. My kid likes the bacon cheese burger and onion rings. I also like Piggy's Bar for their jalapeno poppers and Mexican lasgana. Their beer list is amazing, you can get a variety of Canadian ales, lagers and stouts some of them organic. If you are in Loudong (checking out the nearby waterfalls or Botanic Gardens), you can eat Indian at Spice Land , definitely for Taiwanese palate,so ask for hotter curry. The naan bread is too starchy for me, but the sweet, coconut naan is a great post hike pick me up. I recommend  the chai coffee, and pineapple chutney with scones are amazing. In Loudong you can have an organic brunch at Light Brunch and Cafe (03-954-3397). There is also a dynamic duo who drives around Yilan County and makes custom pizzas out of their truck which has a built in stone oven. Sunday they are in Touchung, Wednesday they're in Nanfang'ao, Thursday in Jiaoxi, Friday in Zuangwei, and Saturday in Su'ao (0963-623210). There is also Tavola's, and Brown Taffy, which I still need to check out.

Biking along Yilan Riverside Park



Where to workout:
Yilan Sports Park has a weight room, track, outdoor rings, parallel bars and huge rollerblading rink. You can also rent a bike hit a trail and bike on a bike path all the way to Loudong Sports Park. There is an indoor pool.. You can hit 3 hiking trails in Jiaoxi near the waterfalls or outside Su'ao. You can also run the stairs and so some yoga at Yilan County Government Building. The green field looks great for a run, but the ground is treacherously uneven under the thick grass. Better to run at the empty track at Yilan sports park or any of the bike trails. You can pick up a detailed map of all the bike trails at the Tourist info center at Yilan Train station.

What to do:
It will probably be cold, so warm up in the hot springs, Jiaoxi, Fanfan or in Taipingshan. If its not raining, bike along the coast or head to any of the lakes and rent bikes. Jiaoxi, Nanao and Loudong have some great waterfalls (see my post "Whats Not There To Do Here").

If its raining, you can still enjoy the hot springs, but there is also a local brewery, honey museum and farms galore.

What Taiwanese tourists do when they arrive at Yilan is take photos of the train station, and across the train station is a hanging train which I suppose is interesting in its own way. What is also standard is hitting the night market in Yilan (Dongmen Night Market) and Loudong. I'm over night markets, they seem to be all the same to me, but there is a guy in Yilan,"The Watermelon Prince" who has a stand near the bridge and he sells the freshest juices. Other than that, its just like any other night market, dumplings, stinky tofu, greasy and fried anything. The morning market in Yilan is far more interesting.


I might of convinced myself to stay here and relax.

Saturday, December 27, 2014

Hot and Au Naturel

Walking to Fanfan to cross the river

Here is a brief summary of more hot springs in the Yilan area. I already have mentioned hot springs in Jiaoxi, these outdoor Japanese pools (see My Family's First Visit and scroll down). My favorite hot springs are right in the river.

These are known as  梵梵溫泉 (Fàn Fàn Wēnquán) Fan Fan Hot Springs and are beside the small aboriginal mountain town off Highway 7 in Datong Township on the way to Taipingshan. Its about a 40 minute drive from Yilan up a winding mountain road. You can either park your car in the village and walk 10 minutes along the river, cross the river (shin deep) or continue your drive past the bridge and turn left under Highway 7 and park. You will see other cars.

There are always people here on the weekend, but the river is gracious, you can walk along the river and there will be pockets of boiling water, enough for everyone.
Fanfan



The sound of the rushing river drowns out any loud, obnoxiousness, its very tranquil like that. I arranged the rocks the way I liked it, and when we got to hot, went into the freezing mountain water. I really want to camp here though.
Renze


The second springs is further down the 7 inside of Taipingshan National Park 太平山森林遊樂區, called by either Jioujhihze or Renze Hotsprings. You will have to pay a not very cheap entrance fee for the car, per person, dogs are not allowed.

Renze 

 My friend brought his dog, so my kid had to beg and plead for us to keep her in the car just long enough for hot springs. The hotsprings itself is a typical entrance for a nice public pool. They have private rooms with giant tubs as well. The water was very slippery with all the silicon, great for soft skin. A 2 minute walk from the car park, there is a touristy geyser people boil eggs and corn. I really want to return to the park sometime this winter and see, hopefully snow. Being in the hot  springs in snow, is not to be missed.